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Thread: ECU repair

  
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    guybrush's Avatar
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    Question ECU repair

    Anyone know if its possible access the circuit board inside the ECU on Z14XE Astra to check for shorts or open circuits.

    RE: http://www.astraownersclub.com/vb/sh...d.php?t=296497

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    not sure on the actual testing of it but i know that with the ECU removed, the back of it, can be cut round the edge...like silicon and the metal back plate removed....then fitted the same wih a little sealant round the edge and hte metal backing plate fitted back......


    look for black solder, been told this can cause the ECUs to play up

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    just found your origional post about your ECU, didnt realise this was you, i couldnt post on it though as AOC wouldnt let me!!!!!magically i can again!

    it is you ECU at fault this is the EXACT problem i had, i paid the £200 for repair but was told by a mate at vaux that it is normally just 4 solder points on the circuit board that go black with the heat from the engine, just renew these.....

    so basically i could have paid 200 bar for 4 bits of solder to be renewed but i didnt know at the time.... worth a look for how easy it is to access...

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    guybrush's Avatar
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    Hi JAY R, thanks for your reply. I'll try opening the ecu at the weekend, weather permitting, and see what i find. By the way, who repaired yours, was it vaux or an ecu repair specialist.

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    erm was a place in nottingham i think....

    ECU Testing LTD.
    23A Church Street
    Eastwood
    Nottingham
    NG16 3HP
    United Kingdom

    Tel:
    ++44(0)1773535638

    ring em and they will tell you what you need to do mate and they do test it first and get back to you to confirm if its actually broke or not. even if you take the ECU backing plate off and cant see anything yourself just send it to them, saves them the job lol...but like i said i was told that its normally 4 solder points that turn rotten/black due to the heat from the engine (fancy putting an ECU on hte side of an engine block anyway!) so when you take it apart look for this, as you could save yourself big bucks...aparently , so i was told, when you look at it these 4 solder points are bigger than others and are near each corner...


    let me know how you get on

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    Opened up the ECU to find a circuit board covered in a clear gel like substance ( see pic.). No evidence of any corrosion or bad connections, looked perfect so resealed and reconnected to car. All symptoms still exist so i presume ECU is knackered or possibly bad earth in the loom. Just guessing.



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

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    Hi Guy,

    I have never opened an ECU before but although there are many surface mounted components now being used, as seen in your photograph, in my opinion, you would have to CAREFULLY remove the PCB from it's metal cage and check the underside soldered joints as well. CAREFUL use of a sharp blade, similar to a stanley knife, would be helpful in separating the gel from the metal case usually allowing you to lift out the PCB. I would also particularly look closely, preferably under a bright light, at the soldered points, where the input sockets are.

    If you do not feel upto it then take Jays advice and send it off for test/repair.

    Hope this helps.

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    cant see pics at work but will look when im home and try show you the points im talking about.....


    off topic....cant believe with some of the 'GURUS' on here that they cant help either....always found that with this place if your not a regular you get ignored lol

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    HI all, The pcb itself is actually bonded to the metal casing and connectors with the wires you can see in the pic. To remove the board would mean detaching these wires (over 100 in total) which i think is a step too far especially when I'm not sure the ECU is at fault. The board is earthed to the casing in the corners with the same wires and these connections look fine. Guess it needs a professional diagnosis.
    Thanks to everyone who took time to reply. Comments appreciated.

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    now its off the car send it to that place, they will test it first ffor about £15 first and get back to you ....if it was you with the camshaft, and throttle body fualt codes?? then i think it will be your ECU

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