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Thread: trouble starting when hot

  
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    irmscher mk4's Avatar
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    Unhappy trouble starting when hot

    Hi a quick summary of whats been going on i have an Astra mk4 2.0 16v SRI its recently been smoking from under the bonnet (burning oil) which i was able to smell inside the car aswell, on Friday night i drove the car for a couple of miles car was warm and nipped into halfords to buy a new fog light bulb i came out within 5mins went to start the car and it really struggled to fire up. parked up left it for 40mins tried again and started on the button. however turnt it back off again and re started it struggled turnt it off, started up again and it got even harder to start. i have no idea if the two things are linked but have now found the oil was coming from rocker cover so have now changed the gasket along with the pipe and gasket coming out from the front of the rocker cover (original had a box on and was covered in oil replaced for straight pipe as advised by vauxhall) the starting problem when hot is still a problem. Can anyone shed any light on this problem for me, and sorry for such a long description.

    Thanks

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    paulcvxr's Avatar
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    Not 100% but had same problem with a golf gti I had. try cam shaft sensor

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    Cam or crank sensor. Fiats are bad for the crank sensor. It might just be knocked a little too far away for the sensor and needing turned or pushed back to where it should be.

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    Moved to the naturally aspirated section.

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    crank sensor or coolant temp sensor gets my vote

    have u tried the paperclip test to see if any codes are stored or know anyone with diagnostic equipment (opcom for instance) who can look at it for you

    if not, post in your regional forum and im sure someone local will have a look

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    Sorry im very new to the forum thanks for moving the post to the correct place! My friend has a diagnostic machine and tried plugging it in just kept coming up no connection? whats the paperclip test im willing to try anything to get to the bottom of it its really annoying!

    are the crank sensor or coolant temp sensor easy to get to so i can clean them and make sure there plugged in properly or are they dear to replace?

    thanks for you help so far guys

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    your engine uses the old OBD1 software which means most handheld devices wont work - as they are mainly OBD2 which is 2000 onwards for petrol engine and 2004 for Diesel

    sadly yours being the X20XEV falls into the OBD1 category

    only real deal diagnostics will work - thats why i suggest asking in your regional forum on here for someone with "opcom" software who can come and help diagnose it

    in the meantime however heres some info on the paperclip test - essentially just a case of briding out pins 5 & 6 on the diagnostics port and counting the series of flashes given out by the EML on the dash.

    you're looking for a number of flashes, a pause, more flashes, a pause etc

    for instance 10 flashes, pause, 3 flashes, pause, 10 flashes, pause, 10 flashes, pause..... then onto next code

    1-9 flashes = 1-9 in the code
    10 flashes = 0 in the code

    so the above would be 10-3-10-10.... 0-3-0-0...... P0300 = P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected





    Paperclip self-diagnosis test for early mk4s

    Basically lift up the cover (ie the u-shaped piece of plastic) underneath the handbrake. Here you'll find the OBD (on board diagnostics) port. You need to fit the paperclip/wire in pins 5 & 6. Switch on ignition until dash lights come on then count the number of flashes the engine management light gives out.

    It'll be a set sequence of flashes and pauses.

    It'll then repeat itself about 3 times then move onto the next fault code if more than one is stored.

    More info can be found at www.topbuzz.co.uk - click on "Info Tech Section" then "Reading ECU Fault Codes" and all the info is there.

    It really does sound bizarre i know - but i did it on mine and got the code straight away.

    Report on here your findings - or check on the site above (or even a google) and youll get the same result that a diagnostic hook up would give....only for nowt!

    To remove access panel - insert small flatblade screwdriver as shown and pivot the panel upwards....it should look like this once removed.





    Heres what the OBD port should look like (although its not from a Mk4)



    crank sensor and CTS are both extrememly easy to replace - CS by 1 bolt and a plug, CTS is just screwed into the end of the head

    CTS is about £10 with CS about £25 or so..... get it diagnosed first if u can though

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    Thanks so much ill go and find a paper clip and do it later today! and let you know exactly what it flashes just to be clear is it the computer that flashes or the eml light that does? also how do i know when the code has ended (e.g. as standard are they four numbers long?) If it has more than one code after the first one i just urn of and turn ignition back on yea?

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    it'll just keep scrolling thru the codes one after the other, upto 3 x each iirc

    it'll stop flashing at a point of if u keep getting the same code then youll know theres no others

    it may not flash at all...or may flash at least 11 times +

    first flash is never more than 10 so if its more then theres none stored or none retrievable by this method - sometimes it needs plugging into a computer for more codes to show


    its the EML on the dash which will flash


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    Ok have tried the paper clip but when the ignition gets turnt on the engine management turns off and doesn't come on again atall as soon as u take it out the light comes on and stays on? Any ideas?

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