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Thread: machine polishing/cutting compound

  
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    astrasximan's Avatar
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    machine polishing/cutting compound

    hi has anyone ever used cutting compound with a machine polisher to bring the shine back up, If so then does it work and how easy is it to do.
    I know you have to keep the pad wet so it doesn't burn the paint but do you have to do a panel at a time and then wash it off or can you just do the full car and then wash it. Thanks

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    jimcoupe's Avatar
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    its done wonders on mine i used my polisher and a compound called g3 helped remove most of the small scratches and swirl marks and bought back a good shine

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    if it's colour that your trying to restore...you will need to be very carful as to how long and what cutting compound you use...

    i use 3M stuff you carnt go wrong with this stuff..

    green polish compond + green pad= aggrisive cutting compond (only to be use on paint work whwere deep scratch's are and to be used with care!! soak the pad in water over night

    then yellow polish+ yellow pad= used on the whole car (not skirt's/plastics) cutting

    then blue polish+ blue pad + finishing glaze

    these polish's will do the trick with a rotary polisher... just be VERY VERY carful

    oh and dont forget to do all the prep work first..

    foam..rinse..wash...clay...wash..rinse...dry... then tape up plastics/skirt's

    hth

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    Now this is the million dollar question and not something id even contemplate if inexperienced especially compounds because vauxhall edges are what i call 10 second edges meaning within 10 seconds i can cut through them.
    Most vauxhall infact all vauxhall paintwork does not need an aggresive compound to correct it at all infact i can use ultrafina with a slightly aggresive pad and correct paintwork then jewel it at the end.
    There are various techniques when correcting and most people use the zenith technique of approx 900 , 1200 , 1500 , 1800rpm then back down,...
    Why is this?
    Simply because compounds and extra fine compounds have diminishing abrasives. This means that when you start to polish or correct at 900rpm your actually spreading the product into the working area , then you speed upto 1200/1500 and the abrasives in the compound actually start to do their job by cutting the clearcoat or solid paintwork removing dead paint so to speak , after a while heat is introduced due to the friction and this starts to liquidise the abrasives and as stated they start to diminish. Once they diminish you notice the product change from a milky white to a clear composition and this is when i start to polish the surface at 1800 which removes any bad surfaceing from the cut , i then work back down slowly making sure all the time the heat is within the boundaries that it wont damage the paint until i stop the polisher and remove the excess clear polish then giving an ipa wipedown to make sure i havent filled any swirls which are then masked.
    As above my system is the 3m system and the reason is because they offer me the longest working time and the best finish. You so approx 2 square foot at a time max before moving onto the next section , no water is really needed to keep the panel cool because with experience you shouldnt be heating it up too much...
    I would say if you have never machine polished before it may seem easy until it goes wrong , anyone can remove paintwork , it just depends how much and where safely and knowing how to get the best finish.
    Heavenly Paintwork is simply Heaven Itself.

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    TelTel's Avatar
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    And also Marc, would it be a sensible comment to advise not to use too much pressure when machine polishing as some people can get carried away applying pressure thinking it will gain best results in less time when realistically you will be

    1. heating up paintwork too quickly
    2. cause excess polish/compound to somewhat clog itself to the paintwork
    3. taking off paint quicker than you think which can end up with a visit to a spray shop costing you money!!!!

    i aint as experienced as some people in detailing but i do have a good eye and believe that time and thoughtfullness can be a great advantage & if you aint sure then.......ASK!!!!
    My last username was ElTelcoupeT....Im now TelTel & Detailing is my game!!.

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    Absolutely but this is where the danger comes when an understanding of heat and pressure are not known when starting out which is why detailing live on a car to gain experience is suicide, much better to get panels and practice I feel. Pad and polish are only half the battle, time, heat, conditions and history/knowledge of paintwork are as important.
    Heavenly Paintwork is simply Heaven Itself.

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    dwmc's Avatar
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    i practised on my mates cars , the sort of cars that are due to be scrapped .

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