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Thread: Car not starting - surely not battery though?

  
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    Car not starting - surely not battery though?

    The past 3 days (Mon, Tues & tonight - Weds) when i've come to go home from work, the car has seemed a bit hesitant on starting. This is unusual as it usually starts 1st time every time. Hesitant being Mon & Tues.

    Tonight it just didn't start. Turned the key & it immediately moaned & groaned & then the MFD display just sort of reset itself (which happened last time the car wouldn't start & i kept the key turned). MFD righted itself later, but that's not important.

    Luckily, we have an on site garage at work so i got it jumped (after nearly sparking myself when losing grip on the jump leads & having them touch. Ooops)

    Mechanic fella said likely dud battery.





    Thing is, it starts in a morning as it always did - first time without hesitation.

    I have the radio on on my breaks (2x 15mins & 1x 30min) throughout the day, but i always have done without problems.

    I know it's been really cold & damp today, but it's been cold & damp other days also.



    If it was the battery & i first noticed it Monday night, surely it'd have done it Tuesday morning & this morning also & not just at night?


    Ideas?

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    if its your batt then your igniton lights,mid etc will all flicker and dim when tryna crank over and ur s motor might click once etc?is this the scenario?pop to halfords or etc whos got a batt tester and can tell if its got a bad cell etc
    "WHATS THE RETAIL ON ONE OF THOSE?" "MORE THAN YOU CAN AFFORD PAL . . . .888

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    Hmmm, you know, it only happened about 2hours ago, but i can't remember now. I know the click-click-click that you mean, but i don't THINK it did it tonight. I could be wrong. How poor is my memory.

    I didn't notice it, but the bloke did comment that once the leads were connected, my lights got much brighter. He said i should switch them on to stop any power surges and frying the ECU.

    I've noticed that when dipping the clutch when setting off slowly in a morning for e.g. that the lights dim with the clutch dipping, and if the heaters are on then it interrupts the flow.


    My dad may have a tester, i'll have to ask him. He'll more than likely know what he's looking for, but just in case he doesn't, what's the reading that you should be getting? Is it a voltmeter that you use on the job? I'm just guessworking now.

    Failing that i'll use the battery pack & have my work look at the battery on Saturday.



    EDIT: Battery hasn't been changed since i've owned it (Sept 2008 - genuine Vaux battery) and although it's been serviced, the spark plugs also haven't been changed since i've owned it.

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    normal slight dimming occurs when items are turned on when car running,but if hugely noticable then power(voltage) is low.
    when tryna start the car:

    1)dim lights and flickering when crank is usually battery

    2)lights dont dim,crank no response at all,no click usually starter motor and maybe ignition switch



    to test batt it shold have like 12 volts min at rest,but you need a digital batt tester with display which would say ie:bad cell-replace etc

    also check the alternator is charging correctly with a multimeter when engine running(connect pos and neg to batt pos and neg at idle ,,and then test under load ie lights and blowers on)

    should be around 13.5-14.5 volts on both tests for alternator
    hope that helps
    "WHATS THE RETAIL ON ONE OF THOSE?" "MORE THAN YOU CAN AFFORD PAL . . . .888

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    Turns out my dad doesn't have the kit for the job

    So i'll have to try the lads at the garage at work

    I assume the same rules (volt readings etc etc) will apply on cars that it will to HGVs (as that's the type of garage it is) and that the same hardware will work on a car that they use for HGVs?

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    Should do just remember to set the volts or what ever measurement on the metre to a lower level because its likey its set higher for the HGV's. Ask for a proper fancy battery metre if you can (dont no proper technical name... ), makes it a bit easyier because it will come up on a wee screen saying, bad cell, low charge etc.

    Edit***i just realised the chap above said basicly what i said hence my post may be pointless..... Well cant blame me for being eager to help a fellow AOC member and not bother read other posts till after i had posted me reaply..
    Astra Coupe Turbo Regal Phase 1

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    Had it tested by the garage boss at work today.

    His first test was for the cells i think, as he said they're all ok with the reading being 12.6. I assume it's 12.6 volts.


    He then put a battery discharger on or whatever it was. The result of this was him saying the reading suggests the battery needs to be charged.

    He then tested with the engine on, the lights on, the blowers on, me revving the car, me holding it about 1.2k revs.

    He said it's charging & all, but maybe the battery is a bit lazy is his words.


    There's an autospark coming in tomorrow & he said i should get him to have a look with his equipment as it's "better".


    Wouldn't be alternator packing in would it? Would you say deffo battery & only battery?

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    Dude,youve gota get a batt tester that has a display for a proper test,
    a multimeter is ok to check the volts etc,but you need the tool to say either
    :good battery
    :good battery but recharge and retest
    :replace battery


    as long as hes tested the charge rate at idle and underload and both fiqures ok then the alternators ok
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    That's probably what he's on about sparky having. He said i should get it looked at by this bloke as his equipment is much better than what was used tonight.

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    Yeah man,hopefully he will have it,it takes under one minute to check after connected
    "WHATS THE RETAIL ON ONE OF THOSE?" "MORE THAN YOU CAN AFFORD PAL . . . .888

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