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Thread: Front disc and pads?

  
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    macka09's Avatar
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    Front disc and pads?

    Hi all, Just wondered how difficult it is to do this job on an astra mk4 1.6 sxi? I've changed the rear shoes before but never the front.

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    nry's Avatar
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    Moved to Mk4 > Chassis

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    SRI-T Keithy's Avatar
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    If you have changed rear shoes doing front disks and pads will be a walk in the park for you

    White is the new Black

    FARMYARD TUNING

    LEH IS THE FUTURE

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    I changed a local members pads yesterday in 30mins on same car but that was taking my time to show him whats needed

    Discs will only take a further 10mins or so

    Allow 1.5hours for a complete novice but there really isnt that much to go wrong despite what most ppl think

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    its easy man, wheel off,push bk caliper slightly,undo caliper bolts 7mm allen key,remove pads,then push bk caliper piston fully(may need bf cap off and a rag to prevent spilling),dependent on disc size,either remove caliper carrier, or not at all,remove disc, then refit accordingly using copper slip on pad edges to stop squeeking,pump pedal,top up fluid if req,wheel on, job done
    "WHATS THE RETAIL ON ONE OF THOSE?" "MORE THAN YOU CAN AFFORD PAL . . . .888

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    i couldnt do my back pads but front ones are easy.

    only tool you will need is a G clamp to push the adjuster back in to the middle.

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    the only thing that throws me is the parts you are mentioning I haven't a clue what they look like lol?

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    if you are unsure then don't do it, as GB says it is a fairly easy job to do but if you are not sure get someone with experience to help or do it for you whilst watching for next time. white chocolate on your write up you forgot to say that the hub mating face should be cleaned with emery cloth to allow the disc to sit flush and also before pushing any caliper piston back, the bleed nipple should be opened to allow the fluid to expell and not create backward pressure that can reverse master cylinder seals. which is a common thing on GM brake uints

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    right then

    grab a haynes manual!!!! u cant go wrong!



    wheel off, 2 x 7mm bolts holding caliper onto steeering knuckle (no seperate caliper carrier on your model) - unclip outer pad retaining clip from caliper, swing caliper off the hub carrier (knuckle) hang it up using a strap or bungee onto suspension strut for instance

    use g clamp or similar (keep old inner pad in place for ease of use) and carefully and slowly push piston back into its start position - open reservoir cap before and place rag round in case any fluid spills out

    remove disc retaining bolt and pull off from hub - may need rubber mallet to free it if stuck, clean up mating surfaces and grease up, clean discs with petrol or brake cleaner - fit and secure with bolt

    remove pads from caliper, clean up with wire brush, sandpaper or brake cleaner, apply copper grease to backs of pads, fit inner pad into piston, fit outer pad into the cutouts in the knuckle - ie fit it onto the disc face and not the caliper

    swing the caliper back onto the disc, fit 7mm hex bolts from earlier, lock the outer pad retaining clip over the caliper

    repeat on other side

    safety first, so trolly jack, axle stands etc....

    pump pedal few times once fitted, check fluid level and employ bedding in process - roughly 200miles or so of careful braking - google it if unsure




    OR


    Just buy a haynes manual!


    **as Steve says - easier and better to open bleed nipple then bleed system afterwards**

    Might be better to let sum1 else do it though

    Why not ask in ur regional forum? Thats what i advise my local members to do then id show them what to do etc

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    macka09's Avatar
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    Local forum??? I do have a Haynes manual it's just that as it's the brakes I don't wanna mess up lol

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