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Thread: Any electricians/cooker fitters on here ?

  
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    fordy's Avatar
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    Any electricians/cooker fitters on here ?

    We are having a new cooker delivered next saturday.

    Now I know it needs "hard wiring" and whilst I'm in the process I'll be replacing the on/off switch as current one has a split in the casing.

    Am I right in thinking I'll need control unit (on/off switch), terminal outlet box and some 6mm cable ? All rated appropriately.

    Also the circuit breaker at the consumer unit is a 32Amp one. Is this ok ?

    Any guidance appreciated folks.

    One more thing, the control unit is currently on the wall about 18 in above the ceramic hobs. Is that illegal/ safe ?

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    You will have the isolation switch above the counter and an outlet point behind the cooker. Usually rated at 45amp.

    There should be a link between the isolation switch and the outlet point already so all you need to do is switch off the big red switch and connect the supplied cable from your cooker to the outlet.

    Make sure that the cable does not kink when you push the cooker in and that there are no sharp edges close to the sheeth.

    when stipping back the cable ensure that the grey outer sheeth is contained with in the outlet and if needed have the correct earth sleeving on the earth wire.

    the fuse rating will depend on the cooker itself but 32a - 45a should be fine.

    so long as you cannot touch the isolation switch from a source of running water it is ok, personally i would have it over to the left or right of the unit to enable it to be switched off in an emergency

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    The Circuit breaker you have should be rated to protect the cable.
    If your cooker demands more than that, then you need to uprate the cable and circuit breaker.

    You may find that the cooker rating is for all accesories in use, which you rarely do, so you may be fine with the 32A breaker.
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    Cheers guys.

    Currently there is no outlet just some 6mm cable that comes down to the isolation switch and straight into the back of the cooker. Which I know is wrong and needs doing properly.

    We'll see what the cooker is rated at when it comes.

    Thanks for the info guys.

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    Al the above is right mate Im a Jib electrician., Also the cable should be in the wall or in trunking......
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    Electrician in training here
    I agree with all of the above.
    But when we are doing a new build the cooker is put on a 45amp breaker.
    We take a 6mm from the consumer unit to a control switch and from the switch to an elephants nose(ask in shop they will
    know what it is) when the cooker is installed the plug is
    removed from the flex and wired straight into the elephants nose
    sorry if any is incorrect I stopped doing house bashing in may and was out of work till october. Doing fire and security now

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    Sheesh ^^, never put 6mm cable on a 45A breaker, it should be 32A. If your cooker requires more than this then it will be needeing 10mm cable with a 40 or 45A fuse.

    The cooker isolater/control panel should never be mounted behind or above the cooker, its never very nice putting your arms through the flames to isolate the supply when the chip pan catches fire!

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    Most control units I can find are rated 45A.

    Am I ok using a 45A control unit with existing 6mm cable and 32 mcb's ?

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    Yes you should be provided your cooker does not draw more than 32A (you'll have to look on the box or at the specifications).

    It's not the best practice because obviously at a later date someone could come and plug a bigger cooker in but it should be OK for your usage.

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    Thanks.

    I couldn't find any 32A stuff in either B+Q or Wickes today. Cooker is rated at 32A so we should be fine.

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