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Thread: 2.0l Dt 16v issues...

  
  1. #1
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    2.0l Dt 16v issues...

    just bought a *spares or repair's* '99 astra van, at £350 it was worth a punt...


    it has got issues, like the engine light's on any its very low on power, feels liek im driving my old 1.6D mk1 caddy... before i put in a 1.9TD AAz engine it it....
    slow.

    its currently at a diesel specialists, as its engine light problem is somthing to do with the infamous EGR valve problems all VX's seem to have, i did all the basic checks that ive borrowed from this site.... mainly checking vac lines to the sensors, checking the maf/map sensors/connections, making sure the inlet manifold is tight and the shiney top hat is tight too, checked all the above still no turbo noises, and still as slow as a goat.

    now im hoping the diesel specialist will be able to at least pin poist the issue for me to replace, im just wondering is it worth messing around with 2nd hand parts, ie ones on ebay right now, or a local scrap yeard has a vectra in, with the same engine, which has all the sensors/egr valve still in situ... writern on the windscreen is 'engien in good cond' so i asume all the sensors would be too..

    anyone fitted cheap 2nd hand EGR related problem parts and fixed the issues, with no probs 100 miles down the road??

    the smaller probs its got, one of the glow plugs is snapped off half into the head, im sure it'll be fone glowing on 3 plugs right thu winter, but how common is this? if it does begine to be an issue starting it'll have to get pulled/removed or possibly heli-coiled etc... anyone had this problem before?

    the next issues arent worth thignking about till its in good runnign condtion, but i know for a fact that ill want the best out of this van once its reliable and on the road etc...

    now i k n ow the 2.0l 16v DTi engines were exsactly the same bar they had a intercooler, which ive already sources, but not bought, i know they are defiantly worth it, are there any other performance gains eaisly done while im there? possibly re-mappign it? i'll be hopfully changing the exhaust with more or less a stright thu' 2" pipe, which a 'performance' back box, that alone should help the turbo spin up quicker....

    what is the stud PDC on these 5stud wheels? i notice its got disc brakes all round, that alone would say its ment to be quite nippy right?

    any help on the above issues would be brilliant


    only other things ill be doing is fitting elecritc windows up front, which ive looked up the info on here... goign as low as possible on coil overs, tinting the rear screen, and a full insulation/ply line in the rear, as i plan on sleeping in this at some VW shows next year

    cheers
    alex.

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    lowry_uk's Avatar
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    hi this happened to me eml light was on got it code read and it was the egr, its worth buying a new one 225 posted and never had an issue since. cheers mate hope this helps
    Lowry's 2.0 DTi Diary - The Story.....Ended
    Gone.....But will be back soon!!!!

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    If it's the 2.0 Di then it's the non interooler version & will have a low pressure turbo, its approx 83BHP in standard form.
    The 2.0 DTi has the high pressure turbo & intercooler & produces 98BHP in standard form.
    Not the easiest engines to remap as you have to get the pump ecu remapped as well as the engine ecu to get it to work, not everyone can do them.

    If you're running 5-stud wheels you will be 5x110 PCD.
    2003 Sapphire Black 3Dr DTi Astra
    Custom Irmscher kit, Interior Leather/Alcantara retrim & Alpine/Focal Install
    Install progress (----------)

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    cheers fo the info, found out the fault code at last...

    PO4W which is somthing to do with the vacum system, im gonn ahve a fiddle latters...

    anyone had this problem and fixed it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by alex1916v View Post
    cheers fo the info, found out the fault code at last...

    PO4W which is somthing to do with the vacum system, im gonn ahve a fiddle latters...

    anyone had this problem and fixed it?


    Check you have the vacum pipes on the right way and that they are not kinked/damaged in any way.


    Vectra SRi 1.9 CDTi (150).
    Tinted Windows, Richbrook Gear Knob & Tax Disc Holder.
    Flip down sunglasses Holder.
    6000K HID's, Chilled Glovebox, CD70 Navi, Debadged, Samco Hoses.


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    firstly i checked i was getting a vacume fromt he vac pump on the top right of the rocker cover, ive checked the vacume pipes before, non are leaking, this time i submerged them in water and blew thu, there are no leaks or bad kinks etc, all the rubber 90* joints are fine too.

    im not 100% if the lay out of vacume lines to the 2 solinoid/sensors/sendors etc but im guessing they were in the correct order before i got at em

    ive removed the EGR valve again, and from what i can tell other than it being stiff to push the valve in its in good workign condtion the vacum can/diafram is in good nick as i sucked on the end, and it did pull the valve up into the tophat, and then held it there etc...

    i noticed a new mechanism comign off the front most vac soliniod, the one with the white vacume line going off into/under the inlet mainfold ont he r/h/s that has some opening mech/cam when you suck on the vacume lien which opens up fine etc...

    the only problem ive got is what to buy new/2nd hand next... my firat guess is with the two vacume solinoid/sender/sensors by the front rhs wing (looking into the engien bay from the front)

    becasue when im sucking/or blowing into the vac input/ouput they are making funny noisies, so im guessign they are leaking/broken internally?

    my plan was to source 2nd hand parts and swap everything one by one,

    the two vacume soliniod/sender/senors are black, with GM 09128022, with afew USA patents on them, as well as a made in france label, also they are slightly differnt in that one has a yellow 'O' ring around on of the VAC inlets, also they have these number on them too, 2973 and 3099..... has anyone ever had problems with these vac thingymebobs?


    one big question ive got to do with this engine light trickery.... if i fix this EGR problem, how do i know theres not another problem just waiting, and i fix the EGR issue, just for another engine light to come on about somthing else?!?! thus not knowing its a new problem, and still trying to fix the EGR valve... is there any way to re-set the engine light, so once its fixed it'll tell me....

    or will i just notice it 50x more powerful, becasue at the mo its like driving a non turbo diesel car from the 80's.... ie slow.

    let me know your thoughts...


    have you got a pic of the correct way to route the vacume hoses? to so i can be sure its not that.

    cheers
    alex.

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    ****btw this is the info off this site i tried before i took it to the diesel speclilist...****

    I had exactly this issue with my 2.0 DTi a few weeks back and it was the airflow sensor.. the black plastic piece just up from the airbox before it feeds into the turbo..

    I undid the 2 jubilee clips and unplugged the sensor, cleaned it out with some spray carb cleaner, let it dry totally (2 hours in the sun), refitted it and the issue is gone!



    Right start with the cheaper things first!

    1. Check the vacum pipes (small black pipes going into things) arent leaking anythink. This can trip the EML light. Doe this by visually checking the pipes going into the vacum soloneids on the turbo, butterfly soloneid on the top hat first. Then if you can't see anythink just put the pipe between ya fingers and run them up and down the pipes, (there are a few, see if there is any obvious damage, if there is, replace em.

    2) Check the top hat is on properly, manifold on properly, and that the EGR valve is also on properly, make sure there are no air leaks around the seals, (as this can trip limp mode too aparently), easiest way is to start it and then look and listhen.

    3), Make sure the boost flow sensor is clean, (be very careful on this as these are rather expensive (£200 i think i was told by VX), and that it is plugged in (trust me, some people do forget why and then start pricing up expensive new bits .

    4) Check Plug going into EGR valve is on correctly, (mine pops out and trips it, cable ties are holding it on atm )

    5) Check other electrical connections are plugged in on the MAF.

    6) Start Saving, i had to replace my EGR valve afte ri had checked these and this ended up being the problem at the end of the day.

    At this point you have two options,
    1. Source a second hand one from a scrappy.

    Or

    2. Buy a new one from VX, although the £298 you got quoted is sh!t tbh, there ripping you ff, i have the price list in front of me and the maximum you should b epaying is £279.00 + VAT. And depending on what manifold you have you may have a cheaper one. Though suprisingly i found that VX were the best place for one.

    HTH, if i think of anythink else i will let you know, if you need any more help just ask.

    and yes i did replace my EGR in the end!


    i coppied that of afew threads on here a day or two after getting the van.... i was hopign gthe dianositics/fault code reader would be more accurrate...

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    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vauxhall-Vacuu...item2c51a66e91

    heres one of them vacuum sensors on Ebay....


    are they worth changing/chancing?
    cheers
    alex.

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    reeto been on with this a little more today, and found out the info on P400 engine code, it is the vacume system/egr valve/fuel pump....

    now at the mo im ruling out the posibitiy of and issue with fuel pump as eveything is working in that department at the mo.

    ive spoken to a local mechanic about the isues, and he said try the vacumme solinoid's with 12v and see if they click or do somthing, as they are only a 2way solioid it dones matter if you get -/+ the wrong way,

    neither made any noticeable noise or movement that i coudl tell, should thay? has anyone tested them this way?

    he also said to see if the turbo was ok, as theres no smoke and sounds ok, he said to try undoing the pipe from the turbo to the inlet, the 2" rubber hose, and get somone to rev it while i put my had over the pipe off the turbo, to see if theres any blowing/air pressure etc...

    the turbo is working 100% fine, when on full revs, its got allot of pressure behind it, i was supprised!

    now that i know the turbo is in good working conditon, im 100% its just somthing to do with EGR valve, so the EGR valve is staying open/shut(??)..... So its not letting the turbo'd air pressure into the engine....
    and just re-cirulating it....

    no just so im 100% sure, this is my 2.0l DI 16v's engine's EGR valve yeah?



    as there is another vacume/diafram controled thingy at the eng of the engine inlet, its got a thin white vacume line going to it..... ive sucked on it and it does move a little mechanism so that works... is that somthing to do with the EGR vlave?

    you can see it on pic above, its lower down from the vac pump.

    just wanna know what to try next?



    cheers
    alex.

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