Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: How to completely remove all airlocks in the coolant

  
  1. #1
    Status
    Offline
    nk_bg's Avatar
    AOC Newbie
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    9
    Mentioned in
    0 Post(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    How to completely remove all airlocks in the coolant

    Hi all,

    My astra is with X16SZR engine with aircon. I had the coolant and the thermostat changed recently. I had the gurgling noise from the air vents since then, the mechanic explained that this is normal... I had the same noise before that, but only in the first minute or two after a coldstart. It was almost permanent when starting from still recently. Checked the coolant yesterday, too low, took more than 1.5 litres to fill to the KALT mark. I reckon that the guy who changed the coolant just didn't bother to bleed it to remove all the airlocks. After this topup, the noises are _almost_ completely gone. Bought new cap as well just to play safe - costs only 4 quid. Still, when idle and I press the middle radiator hose, I can see a small burst in the expansion tank, and it just goes on forever. Does that mean that there is still some air locked in the coolant ? If yes, how can I get rid of it? I am going to check the coolant level tomorrow again. I never tried to press the middle hose with the cap off, just noticed an hour ago when the car was already parked and I was just looking at the engine. I thought that it would be a vary bad idea to just open the cap slowly to let the air out since the engine is hot - a sudden burst of a hot liquid burning my hands is not what you want...
    According to my gauge, the temp goes up to 100 degrees before the fan kicks in. Is that normal? I thought that the normal operating temperature of the car is about 92-95 degrees. It is still quite warm here - 26 deg. celsius during the day.

    How accurate is it to try to measure the temperature of the external surface of the radiator with a probe (some digital multimeters have this function)? I am suspecting the temp.sensor that sends the data to the gauge is not that correct.

    Thank you very much in advance

  2. #2
    Status
    Offline
    nry's Avatar
    Cumbria RO | Club Team
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    25,986
    Mentioned in
    48 Post(s)
    Quoted
    1 Post(s)
    Not sure on your engine, but my Z16XE self bleeds...

  3. #3
    Status
    Offline
    GB's Avatar
    AOC Obsessed
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Leeds
    Posts
    21,918
    Mentioned in
    0 Post(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)
    i always run the engine with heaters on full and hot for 25mins or so with expansion cap removed

    ok the system is supposedly a self bleeding one but its just habit and something i will always do


    unfortunately though, the symptoms u describe mainly the gushing water etc sounds more like head gasket failure

    try the above method anyway then take it from there

  4. #4
    Status
    Offline
    nk_bg's Avatar
    AOC Newbie
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    9
    Mentioned in
    0 Post(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)
    Yeah, I am preparing myself for the expense of a HG , but I still hope that it could be just an airlock. What are the "symptoms" that the coolant is hot enough and it is time to put the cap back on ? I suppose that it depends on the environment temp as well, so it is the car that you should keep an eye on, not the clock :-)

Similar Threads

  1. MFD diffuser needed? or remove completely
    By lukeyboi89 in forum Interior
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 16-08-2010, 18:59
  2. How to Remove Ashtray Completely....
    By ieatyouup in forum Interior
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 19-04-2007, 21:19

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •