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Thread: total closure

  
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    chelski's Avatar
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    total closure

    Hi has anyone bought one of these from this guy docvauxhall off ebay as i have and could not get it to work at all from the wiring diagram he gave me

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    theres a how to in the how to section bud

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    Quote Originally Posted by Begbie View Post
    theres a how to in the how to section bud
    NOT the same closure from the same person though is it , so the wireing may not be the same and could cause harm to the closure or the cars wireing

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    Dave One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelski View Post
    Hi has anyone bought one of these from this guy docvauxhall off ebay as i have and could not get it to work at all from the wiring diagram he gave me
    Could be worth posting what wires you have connected to/from and the symptons you currently have. I probably won't be much help for you but there are plenty of people that will be able to here.

    Out of interest, I assume your total closure works, that is when you have the windows open, use the key to lock and hold to the rear the windows go up? And we are talking Mk4, yes?
    Whiteline RARB & Strut Brace with Eibach Pro, Bilstein B4s & RnD Droplinks - FARB Powerflex'd

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    could try migweb???? thier would be a few on their who would know..

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    wires

    hi the wires on the unit are blue,yellow,brown and white my car is a 51plate astra coupe turbo and my central locking works fine as the windows go up when you turn the key in the lock anyways he told me as follows Anyway, you should have a black wire, with a thinner red stripe, and a black wire, with a thinner blue stripe in the loom going to the central locking module. Double check there aren't two of either wire in the loom, I've worked on Vectras around the same year, where the differentiation between the wires is very poor, which is a pain in the Vectra when fault finding them.

    It does sound like you have correct wires, just the wrong way around, although the TIS is showing the same wiring diagram as the cars we trialed the new version with. Swap the BLUE wire on the total closure unit to the BLACK WIRE WITH THINNER RED STRIP in the cars loom and the YELLOW wire from the total closure to the BLACK WIRE WITH THINNER BLUE STRIPE in the cars loom.

    Make sure the doors are fully shut when you try the total closure for the first time, as if any door is opened, the central locking will detect that the lock can't close fully within 2 seconds and fire the unlock signal again, opening the doors to fail safe. You may need to try deadlock and unlocking two or three times to reconfigure the total closure unit, as it latches the last signal it receives and this could override and confuse the logic in the unit if it is told to unlock at the wrong time. tried it like this but the windows do not go up on deadlocking the car if you then UNLOCK the car the car LOCKS itself without pressing the button and windows go up

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    I don't understand why your using 2 locking input wires, one from deadloack and one unlock

    One wire needs to trigger the unit on (Black/Blue), One wire needs to trigger the output (Brown/Black on the Coupe) then you need a live and earth
    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
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    i used a ford relay for total closure and four wires

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    .:Bullen:.'s Avatar
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    do you want to specify what relay and where you connected the wires ?

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    Ford relays aren't recomended
    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
    Electrical fault finding also taken on
    Located in N/W London HA3, and willing to travel within reason





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