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Thread: Installing amp - Help

  
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    Installing amp - Help

    Hi folks

    I'm a complete newbie when it comes to installing amp/subs/speakers etc but i'm willing to learn. I already have a Alpine ida-x100(which is installed) think thats the right name.

    Anyhoo i have an amp - pro sound 100w - i know its a small one lol, but its just something to get me started plus i can always upgrade in future.

    and this wiring kit:

    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165626

    I know how to wire the ground and live wires correctly but i'm a confuzzled as to what to do with speaker wires, am i right in presuming this is the hard part?? how do i know what speaker wires are what??



    Any hints or 'how to' guides would be great as i've already had a lot of searches but i'm just wanting to make sure before i dive in at the weekend. Sorry for long post. also i have a 5dr if that helps.

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    stephenmelody's Avatar
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    what are you trying to amp? the speakers or a sub?
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    just the speakers mate, don't have a sub at this point.

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    Ok, you'll have to decide where you're putting the amp, but basically, you'll have the RCA interconnector out of the head unit and the remote wire off the remote cable on the head unit and send them to the amp, the RCA carries the sound, the remote cable turns the amp on, so it doesn't run the battery down when the car is off.

    Then from the other side of the amp, you'll have speaker connectors, you'll need to run cable from them to the speakers you want to amp.

    does that make sense?
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    Will be putting the amp in the glove box to save a lot of hassle.

    rca connector from head unit to the amp
    so i need to get the door cards of etc to go from amp to the speakers
    and the rca connector is just the mono lead yeah?

    starting to make sense now......i think :-)

    so i don't need to worrie about taking wires from the connector block behind head unit to the amp?

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    Going for a change of plan, i was talking to a mate at work he said plumming the 100w amp via the speakers will make it worse as the alpine head unit has 200w or 4x50w. is this right?

    So i was thinking i could get a set of 6x9's for the parcel shelf to make life a bit easier. i need the boot space and i need to take the parcel shelf away some times, so is there some sort of connection block where i could still take the parcel shelf off when needed?

    thanks for info lads

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    The RCA is the green one in that pack, basically a big cable with 2 phono connectors on the end, but as for mono, i'd expect it to be stereo. I can't really tell from the picture on the halfords site, but it appears to have 2 connectors at one end and 1 at the other? or is it two on each end?

    If it's a 2 into 1 situation then it's probably an RCA for a sub, as sub's run mono, but i've not seen one of them before. If you want to run speakers (either front / 6x9s) I'd recommend swapping that for a stereo RCA connector, otherwise you'll only get mono out of your speakers.

    Well the standard speakers won't sound too great anyway, but it depends on whether that 100w rating of your amp is nominal or peak. the values for your headunit will be peak. There maybe some benefit in running them through the amp.

    As for the 6x9s, if your amp is a 100w peak, then it's only going to be putting out the same amount of power as the headunit. So there wouldn't be a great deal of point i'd say (someone will come along and call me a numpty for saying that) You might want to look at an uprated amp. However if that's a nominal wattage of 100w, then it will have a fair bit of beef, plenty to drive some 6x9s.

    There are plenty of different ways you can look at connection blocks, most 6x9s either have spade terminals or screw-down terminals, in which case you can easily unplug/screw them to remove the shelf. Otherwise you're going to be looking at connector blocks. It depends on how far you're looking at going with this.

    what I would say though, IMO, is that a decent set of front components will be better than some 6x9s. At the end of the day you're doing this for yourself, not your back-seat passengers!
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    6x9s will sound good but I would seriously consider what has been said about components over 6x9s. Remember that 6x9s on the back shelf will make it glaringly obvious that you have spent money on your car's stereo and will appeal to thieves (trust me my last car was broken into twice in the space of 2 years whilst my Astra has remained unscathed - touch wood - in 3 years)

    You won't get as much bass out of a set of components but they will make a huge difference. I run upgraded components in mine with a small 10" Alpine sub and it sounds great.
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    As dave said, 6x9s do scream "I've got a big stereo, break in and take it all" whether or not you have.

    If you really want to go down the 6x9 route, there are some ways of hiding them, bottom mounting and acoustic cloth over the top will help. If you need some pointers on how to do this let me know. Or you can buy a "stealth-shelf" which is basically what I've just described, made by someone else!

    My 106 was broken into when I had my 6x9s on display, when I put components all round in the Astra, no-one touched it.

    I'd also say that a decent set of components even ran off the headunits own power will sound much better than the standard vx speakers. My MK4 had Boston Acoustics in all 4 doors and the difference was unbelievable.
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    Spend the money of something other than 6x9's they put the sound imaging out of place, plus the fact car audio is only played in left and right audio so theres no point in having another left and right

    If you want to retain boot space get a flat subwoofer, they only need an enclosure the size of a shoe box and they kick out a fair bit of bass.

    Pioneer do some good flat subwoofers, or failing that look at getting a 10" or an 8" subwoofer, JL audio do some cracking small subwoofers, Only downside is finding places that sell them.

    To re iterate what Stephen said, whack a good set of components in that are amped, and then stick some sound deadening behind them like Dynamate, E-dead, or Ivanhoe , makes a massive difference on sound.

    Pay no attention to Maximum watts figures, ONLY RMS figures, this is a continual output figure its much more accurate, and the max figures come from manufacturers who rig amplifiers up to like 24v sources and then they blow up

    When buying speakers and amps, try matching RMS figures aswell, that way you can ensure they are getting the power that they need and that you aren't underpowring them
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