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Thread: MK5/H Frequently asked questions / How to

  
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    MK5/H Frequently asked questions / How to

    If anyone feels there is any other information that could be added to this please feel free to do so. Pictures for how to's would be good also
    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
    Electrical fault finding also taken on
    Located in N/W London HA3, and willing to travel within reason





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    Replacing your OEM headunit, then please read!

    PLEASE NOTE YOU WILL ALWAYS RETAIN THE TRIP COMPUTER FUNCTIONS VIA YOU STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS, REGARDLESS OF WHATEVER STEREO YOU FIT. IT IS NOT DEPENDANT ON YOU HAVING A STEERING WHEEL CONTROL ADAPTER. ALL THAT DOES IS ALLOW YOU TO RETAIN YOU STEREO CONTROLS AS WELL AS THE ABILITY TO SET THE TIME (ONLY WITH THE CONNNECTS2 INTERFACE OR IF YOU HAVE AN ALPINE WITH THE ALPINE SPECIFIC ADAPTER)

    For help there are links and posts below for various things,including Double din headunits, boot build, running wires etc...


    Manufactures that support Vauxhall steering wheel controls (Includes MK5)


    MK5 and Double din


    How to replace your headunit without steering wheel controls


    Please read the above and below info before asking the same questions again and again. Also use the search function, that is what it is there for! If you find your question unaswered then by all means ask away.

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    Astra H mk5 Install - Doors (Sporthatch)

    Big thanks to Coo for this how-to. The original post can be found HERE

    The doorcards come off easily enough, you have to remove screwcovers behind the door opening handle, and the grab handle....and also disconnect wiring for the light at the door opener, and the electric window switch.
    Few more screws to undo around the base...then it pops off carefully !



    As with previous Astra's, you're best making an adapter ring for the new speaker. As you can see the original speaker was secured by 3 screws.
    Simply trace round the orig speaker, mark through where the orig mounting holes are...I then countersunk the holes for the original screws, so they did'nt interfere with the seating of the new speaker.
    Cut out your adapter ring using a jig-saw from MDF.

    You can see where I mounted the crossover unit, plenty of space behind the doorcard on the mk5 for it.



    New tweeter is an easy swapover, I used a glue gun to glue the new one to the original grill...for that OE look.
    Used some deadening to mount the ring, also some between new speaker and mdf ring. Should have used more (will revisit this issue when time permits)



    For the cabling between the crossover and the amp, I fed the speaker wire through the original door loom connector.

    If you open the connector up - you will see that the bottom half is not used.
    I carefully drilled a hole through the conenctor block, taking it nice and easy so as not to damage wires in the top half of the connection.



    Also using wire, and a lot of patience, I fed the cable through the original wiring rubber sleeve into the car.
    Although time consuming - the overall effect of NOT seeingthe wiring when you open the doors is well worth it !

    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
    Electrical fault finding also taken on
    Located in N/W London HA3, and willing to travel within reason





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    Astra H mk5 Install - Interior Cable Running

    Big thanks to Coo again for this how-to. The original post can be found HERE

    Used cable ties to keep the wiring safely beside original wiring - to help ensure no chaffing !



    Moved the seats (just unbolted, electricals still connected).
    Moved to get better access of centre console.
    Ran front component speaker wires through console and under carpet.



    Here you can see the wiring coming together from passenger / driver and centre console - to the 4 channel amp.



    Pic of the original wiring (yes not tied together at all) under the door inner sill covers.
    Ran power (and remote) down nearside (passenger) because that's where the original car power cable goes to the main fuse board in the left hand boot panel.
    RCA's down drivers side.

    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
    Electrical fault finding also taken on
    Located in N/W London HA3, and willing to travel within reason





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    Astra H mk5 Install - Running Cables

    Again big thanks has to go to Coo for another great how-to. The original post can be found HERE

    Well, finally got some pics sorted to show how I ran cables through the bulkhead on the sporthatch.

    I removed the glovebox, and low and behold there is a huge grommet that the main wires go through thr bulkhead.
    I managed to get a wire though this to then pull the power cable for the amp through - no drilling = ideal !



    It is recommended that you tape up the wire in the engine bay to help prevent any chance of moisture getting into the wiring.
    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
    Electrical fault finding also taken on
    Located in N/W London HA3, and willing to travel within reason





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    Astra H mk5 Install - Building a Spare Wheel Sub Enclosure

    Yet again Coo has put together a how-to for us. The orgional post can be found HERE

    Astra H mk5 Install - Building a Spare Wheel Sub Enclosure
    I started with a 'rough' plan - not thinking of everything, if I did it again, yes I would do some things different ways.
    But here's how I got on, to giev you inspiration and some idea of what was involved.

    No spare wheel with the VXR - so the space is wasted.
    First of all I ground off the threaded spike (although with hindsight I could have used it to help secure the enclosure)

    Then lined the wheel well with tape/foil etc...then started layering fibreglass.
    Build up a good few coats to get the strength.

    It was a bit of a job to release the fibreglass from the boot but afte a few hefty pulls..it came out !



    The design meant I only needed to use about 2/3s of the well, so chopped it.
    Cut out an MDF 'top' for the enclosure, and decided on the position of the sub (central to the boot), and cut out the correct size for the speaker to fit in.

    laid the mdf top on the f/glass, taped it up and removed from the car to fibreglass the top to the finreglass bottom..then made a back to seal the enclosure.

    Still had access to fibre glass the mdf to teh enclosure through the speaker hole. Again do as many coats as you have time for.
    Also consider adding sound deadening and wadding to the enclosure.



    You can now see how it fits into the boot....used another piece of MDF to mount the amp on...



    The result:
    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
    Electrical fault finding also taken on
    Located in N/W London HA3, and willing to travel within reason





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    Why do you have to go through step 5 and 6? (wire'ing to the emergency light button)

    Is this to get continues power to the units memory? I just installed a pioneer and it did not require this. It remembers my settings as it should.

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    Step 5 and 6 are so the headunit switches on and off with the ignition and also dims when the lights are switched on (not all aftermarket headunits have the second option though)
    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
    Electrical fault finding also taken on
    Located in N/W London HA3, and willing to travel within reason





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    Quote Originally Posted by Autosparks View Post
    Step 5 and 6 are so the headunit switches on and off with the ignition and also dims when the lights are switched on (not all aftermarket headunits have the second option though)
    Hmh mine does that without this setup.

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    You must have a canbus adaptor then
    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
    Electrical fault finding also taken on
    Located in N/W London HA3, and willing to travel within reason





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