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Thread: My Car is Eating AFM's

  
  1. #1
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    cwaigy's Avatar
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    My Car is Eating AFM's

    Hi,

    My car is eating AFM's. By that I mean that everytime I replace it, at random before doing about 200 miles its almost guaranteed to blow.

    The symptoms are the same, the Traction Control light comes on solidly and then the Emissions light flickers on and off a few times. When I stop and start the engine the lights go out but then gradually over the next few weeks / months the car starts running rough.

    I went through about 5 of them last year! It would have been more but each time it blew I just left it for a while without replacing it.

    The car is:
    • Early 2002 Coupe Turbo
    • VXR Turbo with Actuator wound to 6mm
    • Milltek Precat and Resonated Cat Back
    • Standard VX ECU Map
    • No Other Mods
    Are there any other options other than keep replacing them on a regular basis? Could my ECU be broken? I've looked at the VXR 80mm AFM route but it seems a very expensive option as I've got to buy the thing first then get the car remapped to use it.

    Cheers
    Craig

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    webbo gsi's Avatar
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    what air filter do you have on it????
    i have the courtenay one on mine but i went through 5 afm in 8 months!
    what i have to do is clean the filter every 2 months and slightly oil it!
    i believe that its particles of grit hitting the afm which kills them! a lad on here advised me of this! since regular cleaning and oiling ive been ok! touch wood!

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    tim1547's Avatar
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    I was under the impression it was the oil on the aftermarket filters that kills the afm. I went through 3 afms in about 5 months not so long ago. Was running exact same mods as u but with stage 2 remap. Since i've had a bigger ic i haven't had one fail (touch wood) so could be heat related?
    Astra coupe turbo 280bhp-sold
    BMW E60 5 Series M Sport

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    mattjk's Avatar
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    Use a proper paper filter

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    The standard AFM is rubbish, fit a VXR unit.
    Tell me what you've done, not what you're going to!

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    I did an apprentaship in vehicle mechanics and i did most of my training with Vauxhall, this has always been a common fault across the range, they are pretty sensitive, not lke old mechnical Air Flow Meters of course they are Air Mass Meters and arent as crude in their operation... not gonna do the teaching your granny how to suck eggs bit here so i wont go on.

    Anywho... as i remembe the GM meters are hot film systems (correct me if im wrong) and they are pretty reliable in normal useage but they can be really sensitive to greAse and other crap getting to them and this can cause them to fail (cheap air fiters and oiled elements beware!!) they can also have vibration issues so if mounted onto a poorly fixed induction kit this can kill them as well. you can use the "Tap Test" to check for vibration failure (you guys probably know this already) and if you have access to an ooscilloscope you can check the offending item properly to see what its up to.

    Hope this is of help to someone

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    webbo gsi's Avatar
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    a lad on here did his own tests on this and found that if you remove your filter and bang the top side on a bit of white a4 paper and bits of debris are getting through then he concluded that its actually these hitting the afm that kills them hence me cleaning mine every two months and lightly oiling it! since doing this i have had no more issues! seen the k and n test regarding oil leaving the filter and i think that if its done right then oil wont leave the filter media! so it had to be something else killing them? i know vauxhall afms are poor anyway but not 5 in 8 months! i would either get a paper filter or a oiled type but clean it on a regular basis and only lightly oil it!

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    whilst on the subject of AFMs

    can anyone confirm for definite if the sensor inside the AFM is interchangeable between units

    ie say for instance remove sensor from LET AFM casing and fit it inside a LEH casing....and vice versa and from/to other models

    just having weird AFM thoughts and thinking if theres ways of saving money yet still using quality parts

    anyway hi-jack over

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    ...

    as i aid debris/oil is a bit killer but do not rule out other causes, vibration etc. Also remember that the AFM is an active component and could possibly be "burning itself out" for some reason.

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    Webbo not sure if it is my tests you are on about, but if so do this simple test. After the air filter put a blob of really thick grease in the air pipe. Now run the car, if when the amm fails you look at the grease and it is full of grit then this is the cause of your failures. The answer to long life of amm is to use either the OE paper one and change when necessary or if using a K+N make sure you use plenty of oil, just enough to tuen the complete paper red. Also after oiling leave for at least 20 mins before using. 2 other things, clean the K+N a minimum of 20k, and always vacuum out the air box when cleanin any type of filter

    My own tests showed that for 80k+ I used a K+N with no grit bypass, then i took advice from a mate and did ot oil the K+N on a clean. 200 miles later I went through 3 amm and my grease blob was full of grit. Removed the K+N, recleaned and oiled, vacuumed and cleaned all the parts post filter and 25k no problems again, and my grease blob no longer has any grit in it. It is an old mechanics trick the grease blob
    Be Happy


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