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Thread: 1.7 gm diesel engine fuel pump

  
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    1.7 gm diesel engine fuel pump

    If you have read my other post you will know i am having problems with a 1.7 gm engine sohc turbo diesel engine astra. It has stopped dead and is now getting no fuel pumped to the infectors. I have changed the sensors around the engine from a scrap astra and still no fuel is getting pumped to the injectors. I have also checked the poser to the fuel pump and its is getiing 12v through the blue and red wire when the ingnition is turned on so Im guessing its a fuel pump problem and not and engine ecu problem. Is it possible to chamge the fuel pump and fit one from the scrap car? I knoe they have an ecu in the fuel pump so i am concerned that this ecu will not be coded to the engine ecu in my car. ome threads seem to suggest it is some suggest that aslong as it is aligned it will be alright. Has anyone changed one before and did it work ok. At this point Im wishin i had the isuzu engine with the seperate fuel pump ecu!!!

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    Yea ive changed one. Along as the numbers match ie last thre are 003,004 or what ever yours are you can jst change the full pump over

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    Thats great things are hopefully looking up. Where abouts will i find the number on the fuel pump? At the moment mine is covered in muck so im going to have to clean it to find numbers but i wanted to find mine so i can check the one on the scrap car before i remove it? Is the number on a tag, embossed on the pump, top or bottom?

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    Hi there Hoofey. I saw that nobody answered your question about where the number is on your fuel pump. I've got a 1996 diesel Astra with the GM engine down here in New Zealand (where Astras are sold as "Holden" but exactly the same as a Vauxhall). After cleaning up the fuel pump, and with just the right lighting, craning my neck just so, I could just read the tag down on the front of the pump facing the radiator. Maybe similar on yours? Good luck with it. Cheers, Paul

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    Thanx paul i found it and it is exactly where you said. Today i put the new pump on. the car ran lovely for about 1 minute and then stopped dead. again the pump is not pumping fuel (this being the new pump). before i fitted the pump i had had the battery disconnected for a day. what Im wondering is would that have reset the ecu and so when i connected it back up with the new pump it ran for the minute until it re did its checked and then shut the pump down? could it be my ecu that is shutting the pumpo down for some reason? Aftyer a full day working on it i still have a dead car and its starting to do me head in. Next stop unfortunately is the garage and pay me money unless anyone has any more ideas?

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    Bummer - that must have been a fair bit of work to replace the fuel pump, fussing with the cambelt etc, and I wonder whether it was really your problem. I've read a couple of posts saying that nothing extra needed to be done, if required just swap pumps.
    On your other post you mentioned that there was no fuel in the filter. That sure sounds like an air leak before the pump - the pump (original and replacement) struggling to draw fuel but just drawing air into the filter. But I guess you've had the fuel filter off a couple of times now and would have found anything obvious - washers in good shape, bleed valve screwed down tight. And I guess you must have topped the filter up with diesel before installing, which I guess provided the fuel for 1 minute running.
    Maybe somebody else will have a bright idea before you have to take it to a mechanic. Cheers, Paul

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    Paul, just read your post and its given me a new thought. I did blow the fuel feed pipes through to make sure they wrerent blocked but to be honest i havnt checked for leaks which would explain sucking in air and no suction at the fuel filter. I intend tomorow to go take the ecu off the scrap car in a last ditch attempt before the garage but before i do i will check the fuel intake pipe for leaks. (god if only it would be that simple)! Heres hoping but thanx for the ideas. sometimes a different outlook on the problem comes up with the stupidly simple answer... Bring back the carburator i say!!!!!!


    And to anyone reading this post it only takes about 45 mins to remove and replace the fuel pump so its worth a go....

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    Hi again.
    That's what I was wondering as I read your posts - no blockage, good - but maybe an air leak (?). I was thinking right at the fuel pump but maybe elsewhere. On mine I did see a spot on the fuel line from the filter to the pump where it had been rubbing against a metal retaining tab near the cambelt cover. I moved the line so it didn't wear right through.
    Anyway, I am interested to hear you say it only took 45 mins to remove and replace the fuel pump. My pump is OK for now, but I want to be able to do anything I can for my car without paying for a mechanic. Cost a fortune to have the injectors serviced, but that's something I couldn't do that myself.
    What I really want to be able to do is replace the leaking crankshaft seal - simple thing, but, like replacing the fuel pump, its a job which also requires that I remove the cambelt. Never done a cambelt before, but I've got some instructions now. I had a mechanic replace the cambelt a few months ago and did ask him to replace the seal and waterpump but he didn't do either.
    I reckon that I should be able to replace the waterpump and crankshaft seal myself as long as I fix the crankshaft and camshaft position somehow. Then just replace the cambelt I guess. Do you have any instructions or tips that would help, or did you just open up the cambelt cover etc and carefully remove the cambelt, without shifting crankshaft or camshaft, in order to exchange fuel pumps?
    Cheers, Paul

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    Hoofey,
    Does the vehicle run for a full min or just seconds, if it is just seconds maybe its your immobiliser playing up. If you have a spare key try that. Just had a new key programed in and at first it would not take the code becuase the chip was wrong, however the engine would still run for a few seconds before cutting out.

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    Paul, All you need to remember when removing the cam belt is that everything has to go back in the same place.. Remove the outer covers (top and bottom) and then mark both belt and pulleys with an ink.(this way when you put it back together everything is still in time. Then slacken then tensioner (the haynes manuel will show you which one, but as you look at the car from the offside wing its the 3rd pulley down (i think)). Once you have everything in time remove the belt, do what you need to do then it should go back in place and still in time (be aware when you retighten things might go outof line so watch the marks).

    Car mechanics will probably cringe at this way of doing things but i am working with an engineer who worked on enigines long before the ecu and thats why we are having this problem.. Hence the bring back the carb thought ..

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