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Thread: 1.7 dti,EGR,TURBO,HESITANT,80MPH,CUTS OUT

  
  1. #1
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    Walt's Avatar
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    Thumbs Up 1.7 dti,EGR,TURBO,HESITANT,80MPH,CUTS OUT

    Hi Guys.
    This is worth a read if you want to save serious money, bear with me.
    Ive got 2, 1.7 dti's 2001 yes i'm the lucky one, one from new the second I bought in november last year. Done 110k and 95K.
    On the way back home (after thinking i'd got a bargain), once it had warmed up, it hesitated, missfired,Kangarooed, jerked, or as some would say the turbo stopped. Just now and again mainly about 3000 revs and mainly in 3rd or 4rth. Got it on the motorway and every time I hit around 80mph it hesitated and service light came on (would go off when switched off and on again once home). Not so much a bargain hey! This now countinued on a regular basis for the next 2 months slowly getting worse to the point I thought I'm going to go out and not get home!!
    Bought an haynes manual,and started researching every site I could find with similar problems for about 2 days solid, over 2 weeks. Think Missus thought I was on pervy sites!

    EGR came up alot, dirty ect. Was going to give it a go but manual said main ecu would have to be reset if disconected, and it seemed to be underneath this --ermm no one had given an explanation of how to clean except on petrols in the manifold. Shelve that for now!

    MFO(mass air flow drainpipe thingy) came up alot, well I've got another dti so I swopped them over piece of p---, good job 'cos that didn't cure it.

    Crankshaft sensor-- Well that sounds a sod to fit (and it seems ok when cold so why woud the crankshaft sensor only play up when its warm???) shelve that for now!!

    Wastegate valve thingy came up a bit, looked in to that - shelve that for now, looks too hard.

    Throttlebody came up a real lot ehmmm! had a headache that night and had ended up reading in the petrol section (well they had very similar symptoms) lol!!!

    Diesel filter ....... Well, must be tried!! I'd put a newy on my other one each service, but this time I cracked the top of it putting it back and not seating it correctly - dont' put it back in the dark. Had to go to scrappy's in the worst pouring rain to get a replacement - but job's done now. Damn, still the same.

    Vacuum pipes and pumps - where, how big , how many ??????!

    Everybody wants to know the ECU code. So maybe I shouldn't jump to conclusions (or be a tight Bar steward!) so off I went. 20 quid - he did it with two different hand held diagnostics and the codes he came up with were P03070, P0105 and P1125 - for this one - he said "ooooo that sounds bad". Fuel pump malfunction - said it would cost me a fortune. He cleared the codes and said to return when the EML came on again and he would retest for a tenner.

    It never came on again - but problem persisted. More research - more dead ends until ..............

    a common link was found!

    This is the post I used for removing the fuel pump ECU (not the main one on top of the engine) :

    This car has the control unit bolted to the back of the engine (pump?).

    To get at it, undo the clip holding the thick black pipe onto the
    air filter (I think) and the clip at the other end. Take off some
    sort of plug that's wired in to the middle. You have to pull one
    end, rather like opening a matchbox, and the plug comes out. Remove
    the section of thick black air-pipe. You can then get at the diesel
    pump control unit fairly easily.

    Down the back of the engine (back left as you look at it) you will
    see or feel a square aluminium thing *about* 5" square and 1 1/4"
    thick, with vertical fins on like a motorbike engine. It has a wiring
    plug which needs to be taken off. There are 4 10mm set bolts, one at
    each corner, to remove. These are not tight, an open-end spanner
    is OK.

    When you've got the thing off, you will be surprised it's worth
    that amount. It has "ISUZU" written on it. Turn it over, and you
    will see a flat aluminium cover plate, probably with a round sticker
    in the middle, held into the rest of the thing with black rubbery
    sealer all round. Run the point of a sharp knife into the sealant
    around the perimeter. Then *carefully* but forcefully lever off the
    plate with a screwdriver. Under the plate is a circuit board. Careful
    not to damage any components! You're a step away from the fix. *Very
    near* the middle of the circuit board you will see a square post
    sticking up. It may have a bad solder connection. Look at the other
    connections on the board - see how shiny and perfect they are? *This*
    one is probably dull grey, and you can see that the solder does not
    connect the circuit board to the post at all well.

    Scrape off the old solder from the square post *very carefully* and
    brighten the "O" that the post passes through on the circuit board.
    When it's clean, get a soldering iron (you can buy a new 30W one for
    a few pounds), let it heat well, and complete the joint.

    Put the control unit cover plate back on with some sealer (*not*
    ordinary silicone IMO as it gives off acetic acid during the curing
    process, I used neutral cure frame sealent for PVC windows). Re-fit
    the control unit, plug, black air pipe, air pipe electric plug.

    Then, you're off! *That's all there is to it*.

    I spoke to a diesel specialist about this. He was very surprised!
    This may be a common fault. He'd done 6 in the last month, vehicles
    sent to him by "the trade". He was the one who quoted me the lowest
    price (doesn't normally deal with "the public"), so I passed this
    on to him. Personally, I think Vauxhall should do something about
    it. This is a minor fault in an expensive component.

    The procedure would take (next time) an hour or less. So i will be ready for doing my other one as by 6 years the heat of the engine and the vibration seems to cause the problem.

    Any code that points in the direction of feul pump or sometimes spurrious ones that don't. 0370 seems to be the common one, the guy said mine had come up also with the airflow meter 0105 due to changing it without dissconecting the battery.

    Yes, yes, yes, yes !!!!! Now i have a car that runs well. Apparantly for this Vauxhall and many other back street garages, change the pump at a cost of 600.00.That does not cure it - so they then tell you, it must have damaged the ECU and charge you for a fuel pump ECU at a cost of around 400.00! This cost me nothing to fix - bar my time of course!

    If you are not confident at stripping the ECU down, price up a reconditioned exchange one.

    Good luck and hope this helps!

  2. #2
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    ZS's Avatar
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    Pretty common issue with the early DTis - some blew up at new. Good guide though.
    2007 Metro Blue 5 door Mk5 Elite 1.7CDTI
    6th Vauxhall (4th Astra) in 10 years...plus a couple of other sheds...

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    I has exactly the same problem on my 2001 1.7 DTi.. And it was the fuel ECU on the back of the engine..
    However, reconditioning like you did only lasts a few thousand miles (as i found out). I had mine reconditioned by an vauxhall specialist auto electrician and different parts of the board kept blowing. In the end he told me to get a reconditioned one which cost £250.
    Cheaper ones can be found but beware as i fell into this trap when a company (Autotek electronics) supplied me a unit which was faulty and refused to refund me.
    No longer a Astra Owner
    Now Drives -2006 Skoda Octavia vRs in Race Blue

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    astravan xwr's Avatar
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    this is very true, mine went again, so went through the same process, wouldnt start, but it now cuts out power just over 83 mph the cruise at 60 ish then it goes away until you hit 83 again, but other night it was ok and i was doing 100 no problem

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    Thanks for very nice guide,Walt.If you have some images of that part of job,it would be more better. Btw,this is very helpful.
    Regards
    Opel Astra 1.7DTL Black '01 Club version (Y17DT)
    ....Engine cooling service Radiators repairing....

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    My other 1.7 dti isuzu packed in today went over a bump and it just cut out. It never started hesitating like the other one. Towed it home did the ecu job. (did it from the top of car this time - bottom 2, 10 mil bolts are tricky, but if you remove the belly pan for easy retrieval of the dropped spanner, you get them after a couple of go's.) but the dry joint on this one had a broken ring around it alot worse. By the way i'm in electronics so went over the other main connections as well, also the socket pins. Don't know how to post pics on here bokee but if you email me i'll send you them.

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    Top man, this is exactly what I needed to know to solve my problem.

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    having a similar problem with my 2.0dti where the orange electronics/imobiliser light could come on at any time and then no turbo. This happened 3 years ago at a cost of 360 euro for what i was told was a new turbo charger

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    HI Walt i have recently bought a astra 1.7 dti 2oo1 and it seems to be doing the same thing as yours, it is still under warranty and i have had it back to them 3 times with no success. We realy like the car and dont want to ask for a refund unless we cant fix it, i am going to print off your post and take it into the garage to see if they can make anything of it as i think it is very informative.
    I dont know how to fix cars and rely on our local mechanics. many thanks paul

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    Hi there,

    I have a astra y1.7 tdi and its doing the same thing - yellow service light comes on - seems to have little power and then reverts back to normal, well sort of!

    Can you send me over any pics that you have - if you still have them?


    Kind regards

    Steve

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