Right, just a quick guide, its a bit of a mission though...
Think this is right, just done from memory....
Cowel off the steering wheel: 2/3 screws underneath, two on the front and the ignition barrel gromit
Dash/clock cowel: two screws at top, one at bottom either side of wheel i think
remove left and right dial on center console (just pull off)
middle one needs a small screwdriver in from the bottom to release a clip
-screws behind these dials
center air vents prised out to reveal more screws
a screw over by the steering wheel.
screws in each bottom corner.
And if you're lucky, jobs done.
To replace the bulbs it's pretty obvious once you get to this stage.
Good luck, hope this has helped.