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Thread: light dimming after installing boot install

  
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    Question light dimming after installing boot install

    right, the title says it all. ive made a boot install and rewired everything back up. only problem being the lights seem to dim more than they used to. the bass sounds a bit punchier and quieter. before the subs used to really shake the car and sound very smooth, now they can barely be felt.

    when the car is parked with engine off or on the subs seem to be fine apart from the punchier sound. the loudness is as it was before. the second i start diving they seem to go a lot quieter.

    none of the settings on the headunit have been changed or on the amp itself.

    could this be caused by the ground cable not being connected properly. its bolted to the floor of the boot and is very tight. there is a perfect connection there. i was wandering if these problems could be caused by the connection to the amp. this is a somewhat educated guess based on previous experiences.

    does anyone have any better ideas as to what could be causing this?

    cheers in advance for the help.
    "I have opinions of my own, strong opinions, but I don't always agree with them."



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    You may find the car doesn't shake so much now down to how your subs are enclosed. Before you had them boxed... Now you've mounted them in your own install perhaps it's not sealed properly and you aren't getting maximum bass from it.

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    enclosure will make a difference to the sound, a sealed enclosure will be quieter although punchier than if you had them in a ported box before...

    regarding lights dimming, it sounds like your battery is just taking a hammering TBH. several options for you really...

    1. fit a power cap - there's some debate on whether these work as they claim, but you can't deny it should solve your light dimming problems.

    2. uprate the lead between alternator & battery, and the battery->chassis ground lead... This will make the most of what you've got.

    3. fit a larger capacity battery (would change leads as in 2. as well IIWY) & (ideally) an uprated alternator as found on the larger engines/diesels etc.

    all these suggestions have been made before, a quick search will point you further in the right direction.

    In the mean time, don't drive everywhere with the subs going 19 to the dozen.
    NOW - Sapphire Black 3dr Astra G

    THEN - Glacier White 2.0Di Estate - 136bhp 1.6 Pineapple Yellow Mk3 - Flame Red 2.0Di Van - Chianti Red 1.8 Coupe - Star Silver 2.2 Zafira - Flame Red 2.2 Linea Rossa Coupe - Titan Gold 1.8 Coupe

    9 Years, 7 Astras, 1 Zafira, No Regrets.

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    its strange though. the lights didnt dim half as much before i made the install. also how come when the car isnt moving the bass is a lot louder than when it is. there is a considerable difference. this never was the case. it sounds as though they are going quieter as the car moves.

    i will have a gander today and see how far i get with them.

    cheers for replying.

    p.s. rich, i will have to show you them one day. there is a picture on thte discussion page.
    "I have opinions of my own, strong opinions, but I don't always agree with them."



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    almost certainly to do with the current you're drawing then... as you're running the engine/ moving, you've got more electrical systems drawing current from the battery & the alternator isn't keeping up with the charge required. Try the points I posted above (start with 2. then 3. IIWY) and that should cure your problem.

    Also, there probably isn't as great a difference in the volume of the bass as you think there is, if you've removed the boot carpet in order to put your false floor in, you'll get a lot more road noise seeping through. Try sound deadening the entirety of your boot and see what that does... will make your bass sound tighter still as well
    NOW - Sapphire Black 3dr Astra G

    THEN - Glacier White 2.0Di Estate - 136bhp 1.6 Pineapple Yellow Mk3 - Flame Red 2.0Di Van - Chianti Red 1.8 Coupe - Star Silver 2.2 Zafira - Flame Red 2.2 Linea Rossa Coupe - Titan Gold 1.8 Coupe

    9 Years, 7 Astras, 1 Zafira, No Regrets.

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    cheers for your help peteg, you seem to know everything. can i just put a bigger capacity battery in and leave it at that? will the alternater charge it up fully? moneys quite tight currently so i can only strech to a new battery.

    how thick are the wires from alternator to the battery and from the battery to earth? do i have to get a certain cable (as i right connectors) or will any old cable do?
    "I have opinions of my own, strong opinions, but I don't always agree with them."



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    I'm not sure I even come close to knowing everything mate, I bet someone like Autosparks has forgotten more than I even come close to knowing, I just do this as a hobby don't forget

    you could perhaps get away with just uprating the battery, but it probably wouldn't solve your problem for very long. I was always told to think of your battery as a bag of sand. the charge that comes in from the alternator is like someone pouring in more sand into the top of the bag. The current being drawn from the battery is like a hole in the bottom of the bag. Basically your hole in the bottom of your bag is bigger than the hole in the top, so even if you get a bigger bag (battery) then you'll still have the same problem (albeit it will take longer for the bag to empty). Basically you need to get more charge into the battery (& uprate the battery-to-chassis earth accordingly) or reduce the current drawn (sand coming out of the bag).

    First thing I'd do would be changing the cabling between alternator>battery & battery>chassis (earth). That could even solve your present problem, but you'd need to think about taking it further if you wanted to add more to your system in the future.

    If you're not particulary comfortable with the thought of messing about with alternator wiring etc (and if you're not experiencing any major problems as such with battery drain affecting starting the car) you could even go down the power cap route. There's a bit of controversy about whether they do as they claim, but there is evidence to support arguments for & against installing them. I personally would say go for it, its basically like adding a smaller bag to your setup that stores the sand (current) coming out of your main bag (battery) when its not needed, and provides it when it is.

    Something like a 1 farad capacitor would suffice, as you can't exactly be drawing too much power as you'd struggle to start the car after every journey where you had the music cranked up (as I used to when I first filled my boot with ICE in my fiat punto, seemingly many moons ago )

    HTH
    NOW - Sapphire Black 3dr Astra G

    THEN - Glacier White 2.0Di Estate - 136bhp 1.6 Pineapple Yellow Mk3 - Flame Red 2.0Di Van - Chianti Red 1.8 Coupe - Star Silver 2.2 Zafira - Flame Red 2.2 Linea Rossa Coupe - Titan Gold 1.8 Coupe

    9 Years, 7 Astras, 1 Zafira, No Regrets.

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    id leave the cap it cures the problem but is a bodge first things first what size cable are you running from the battery to the amps how long are the cables

    like pete said do the three cables alt to pos on battery but that is hard to do the ground from the engine to the car and most importantly from the negative terminal on the battery to the car boddy make them the same size as your power wires to your kit

    how much power you running and how have you set the gains as you could be clipping and drawing more current than it should


    i used to be all for power caps it seemed to stop the lights dimming abit but it didnt seem to do anything to stop the voltage drop realy so i did the three wires and it stopped the lighs dimming and kept the voltage higher at the amps

    power caps deliver hardly any current realy because the 1farad is from 0v to 14v so if your only dropping the 2volts to match the battery its giving out virtualy nothing and is loading up the alternator more as it has to power your amps charge your battery and recharge the cap

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    cheers again for your help peteg. full of facts! i have found the problem now i think. AutoSRI mentioned the gain settings. When i looked at the amp to determine what the problem was i saw the gain had been moved to full. This was never set like this. So i turned up my system and slowly raised the gain and all other dials. It seems to have sorted out the problem.

    This would explain why the subs were perfect before the install then went tits up after the install. just a matter of the gain control being turned up whilst installing the install.

    i will upgrade my alternater, battery and cables later on if the lights continue to dim. should i just get the 2.0 model wires, battery and alternater. Will they fit? i have the very old style engine which isn't an ecotec. it was one of the first mk4 models. (R reg)

    cheers for your help.
    "I have opinions of my own, strong opinions, but I don't always agree with them."



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    as far as i know there are the differant outputs of alts 80 amp i think you get this if you dont have aircon 100 amp if you have aircon and 120 amp which is fitted to police spec astras if your gunna do it you need to see if the biggest one fits as i think they can vary on fitment

    for the cables just use car audio cable 4awg i probly good enuf and run these along with the factory ones

    set you LPF on your amp to 80 ish hz as a starting point and see how it sounds

    best way i have found to set gains without the use of a scope is to turn all gains down to minimum and turn your head unit up to 7/8th full volume and turn the gains up till you hear clipping then back them off slightly but this only works if all speakers are amped

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