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Thread: quikshift linkage - where from (f17) and does it replace the bit that breaks?

  
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    quikshift linkage - where from (f17) and does it replace the bit that breaks?

    Basically my linkage is on the way out, the gearchanging is getting sloppy, so I thought when the garage change it for a new one, might as well fit a quikshift one! So how much are they? Where from? and is that all I need to rectify the problem?

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    which end do you want?

    gearbox end or stick?

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    well stick if poss, but since its the gearbox end thats knackered, i need to replace that anyway.

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    Gearbox ones are actually better IMO as the only shorten the forwards backwards movement, and not the sideways

    Even tho I've got a short stick i think they not as good since all they are is a stick about 40mm shorter than OE

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    I've got a modfied gear linkage lying around in the shed, never seem to have the time to fit it. It's got a short shift on it but buggered if I can remember the name of it, same as Pardoes anyway.

    I'll try and post a pic of it so you can see exactly what it replaces, I did buy new cups and seals though as I thought it best to do a good job as it will be on there a long time.

    That any help?
    52 Astra G 1.8, 18" Mille Miglia alloys, 325mm Brembo 4 pot conversion, Coupe leather interior, Raid strut brace, Whiteline rear ARB, Irmscher bits (skirts, Carbon steering wheel, Bonnet extension, M3 mirrors, boot & roof spoiler), Reiger Rear Diffuser & Front Bumper, Koni Adj. dampers, 35/30 Vogtland springs, Duplex quad exit ASCAR stainless exhaust.

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    If you don't mind posting pics odders that would be cool!

    Ffoeg, doesn't the pivot point move, I thought that was the principle of the stick?

    Surely it would be fairly easy just to chop down a vaux stick and stick it back together if that was the case?

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    The one I've got replaces the main part of the gear linkage which sits on top of the gearbox, you grind off the pivot bolt and replace it with the one in the kit, you then have a linkage which pivots at the same point but the arms are shorter than the standard bar. I presume the nearer you are to the pivot point the less movement is needed on the stick to provide the same movement on the other end of the bar, if that makes sense.

    I'll get my son to take some pics whilst I'm at work and if he gets it right I'll post them tonight, it's fairly simple to understand once you see it.
    52 Astra G 1.8, 18" Mille Miglia alloys, 325mm Brembo 4 pot conversion, Coupe leather interior, Raid strut brace, Whiteline rear ARB, Irmscher bits (skirts, Carbon steering wheel, Bonnet extension, M3 mirrors, boot & roof spoiler), Reiger Rear Diffuser & Front Bumper, Koni Adj. dampers, 35/30 Vogtland springs, Duplex quad exit ASCAR stainless exhaust.

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    Ok here's 3 pics of my linkage. You can see where the OE pivot bolt has been ground off and replaced by the new kit bolt.



    Everything under those plastic shields has been replaced, if I remember correctly there's a plastic cup, some O-Rings and some circlips.



    52 Astra G 1.8, 18" Mille Miglia alloys, 325mm Brembo 4 pot conversion, Coupe leather interior, Raid strut brace, Whiteline rear ARB, Irmscher bits (skirts, Carbon steering wheel, Bonnet extension, M3 mirrors, boot & roof spoiler), Reiger Rear Diffuser & Front Bumper, Koni Adj. dampers, 35/30 Vogtland springs, Duplex quad exit ASCAR stainless exhaust.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkyG View Post
    Ffoeg, doesn't the pivot point move, I thought that was the principle of the stick?

    Surely it would be fairly easy just to chop down a vaux stick and stick it back together if that was the case?
    I measured both the OE and the fidanza one, and every dimension is the same apart from the length of the shaft above the pivot ball. so it effectively shorted the length of arch you move the stick through

    So yeah it would be a simple case to mod the OE stick, but you'd have to sort our the sliding lift reserve bit. Having said that the lift bit on the fidanza is useless anyway, and I can get reverse without lifting it

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    Oh right, I was under the impression they worked by moving the attachment point of the cable further for the pivot, so less stick travel gave more movement, if that's the case, i will try using the quikshift linkage that odders is using, where is it from?

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