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Thread: Astra MK4 SRI 3door ICE tips

  
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    Astra MK4 SRI 3door ICE tips

    im new 2 this site, but i used 2 have a mazda 323f 5door (2000) and i fully kitted it out with ice. but some kent drove into the back of me and pushed me forward into a crappy proton and wrote of my car so now i've bought an astra sri

    the main thing i want to know is how to run at least a 4AWG cable to the boot from the battery?????

    i need to start putting all my ice back into it, but im not going to bother with some of my stuff just yet

    i'm looking for some tips on how to install in the boot 3, maybe 4 amps in the future, a power cap and a vibe deltabox line driver. and i am using vibe cbr12 twin evo subs (powered by 2 linkable fusion fe-300d's - producing 1000watts rms!!!)

    in my old car i had the all layed out on the boot floor on thck mdf wood

    i also want to know how the rear speaker covers come off in the back of the 3dr, and how the tweeter in the front door removes, anyone know???

    thanks for reading, hope i dont sound up my own ass lol

    would be nice if anyonw came up with some ideas, thanks again

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    Quote Originally Posted by jayz_son
    im new 2 this site, but i used 2 have a mazda 323f 5door (2000) and i fully kitted it out with ice. but some kent drove into the back of me and pushed me forward into a crappy proton and wrote of my car so now i've bought an astra sri

    the main thing i want to know is how to run at least a 4AWG cable to the boot from the battery?????

    i need to start putting all my ice back into it, but im not going to bother with some of my stuff just yet

    i'm looking for some tips on how to install in the boot 3, maybe 4 amps in the future, a power cap and a vibe deltabox line driver. and i am using vibe cbr12 twin evo subs (powered by 2 linkable fusion fe-300d's - producing 1000watts rms!!!)

    in my old car i had the all layed out on the boot floor on thck mdf wood

    i also want to know how the rear speaker covers come off in the back of the 3dr, and how the tweeter in the front door removes, anyone know???

    thanks for reading, hope i dont sound up my own ass lol

    would be nice if anyonw came up with some ideas, thanks again
    4awg is a piece of p*ss to run although you'll need to drill a hole in the bulkhead unless you car has an electronic throttle.
    Once it's through there just pull up the door sills, slide the cable in and then put the sill back in to place.

    Four things:

    1) Why would you want two amps for 1kW? Surely it would be much cheaper buying one than buying two smaller amps and all the wiring?

    2) If you're amps are a true 1kW RMS then 4awg wire is too small especially if you're running other amps with it.

    3) Ditch the cap.

    4) Ditch the rear speakers

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    what it was, i bought 1 fe-300d amp cheap and found out it was linkable, so i bought another 1, i got all the distribution blocks and wiring, and the 4awg cable sorted me out fine before.

    and i know that the more capacitance in a circuit helps with anything why ditch it?

    rear speakers are in the back doors and i cant be arsed yet 2 build a shelf for decent 6x9s, so if i ditch them i got fk all in the back

    the fusion fe-300d's terminals are made for 4awg and linked together they are 1000w rms @2ohm, so 4awg should be ok

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    Quote Originally Posted by jayz_son
    what it was, i bought 1 fe-300d amp cheap and found out it was linkable, so i bought another 1, i got all the distribution blocks and wiring, and the 4awg cable sorted me out fine before.

    and i know that the more capacitance in a circuit helps with anything why ditch it?

    rear speakers are in the back doors and i cant be arsed yet 2 build a shelf for decent 6x9s, so if i ditch them i got fk all in the back

    the fusion fe-300d's terminals are made for 4awg and linked together they are 1000w rms @2ohm, so 4awg should be ok
    Ok, what is the wiring fused at out of interest?

    The more capacitance in a circuit the better is true to a small degree, however good amps will have plenty of this on their PSU so do not need anymore. All you're doing is wasting energy through the leakage of the CAP.

    Don't build a shelf for 6x9s - that's even worse. Just ditch the rears; fronts only, is best.

    If the terminals on the amps are 4awg then each amp is designed for a 4awg run. By using one run of 4awg and splitting it you're putting double the current down it. Effectively you're using 8awg to each and that's before even taking in to account your other amp(s).

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    i see, before in my old car when i was using only one of the fusion fe-300d and 2 other amps, i had a 60amp fuse which was fine. but when i install both of them i don't know what to use thats what i was going to ask next.

    my front comps are vibe se-k60's which were really good in the mazda

    so when you say i'm putting double the current down it is that good or bad? i got a distribution block with 4 4awg outputs and 1 4awg input.

    i got vibe qb69's and i wanted to use them somewhere for something in the back cus they gna have 100rms going to them, or would they sound pants with the subs underneath and before they sounded ok cause i only had 360 watts rms of bass under them

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    Double the current certainly isn't good, but then it depends if it exceeds the current rating for the wire.
    As a guide: 4awg can take a max of 150A on a 4m stretch.
    If a 60A fuse survived then in theory a 120A fuse will be ok and safe now. Try it and see basically. If it was me then I would be putting two runs of 4awg in because it'll be a PITA doing it a second time.

    Any speaker sharing the same airspace as a sub will distort, it will most likely distort more now.
    Whether they sound good, bad or distorted will depend upon what you're used to / comparing it to.

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    oh rite i get you now i only just got my head round it like, i might just buy some 2awg as it goes

    gora find out now how the hell i can get the power into the car from the battery still cant see any holes/rubber gromet to feed it though,

    cheers 4 the help m8

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    You will not find any holes, you can to drill them . It's a pain in the arse. The best place to drill is behind the glove box, even then it's a tricky job.
    You may find a grommet behind the accelerator if you're lucky and your car has an electronic throttle.

    Good luck .

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    seeing as ur car is post 2000 then u could utilise the grommet above the accelerator pedal (used to feed the throttle cable on pre2000 models) or better still drill a small hole behind the glovebox to pass the cable thru - seeing as the battery is on this side - it'd be easier to route the cable down this side, under the trim panels and into the rear.

    For pics and general advice on location to drill - see here: http://www.m1gst.com/vb/showthread.php?t=89575

    its possibly the most common question asked in the ICE forum

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    I have worked on two yr 2000 astras and neither have had the grommet free .
    Drilling it is a bítch although rewarding when you get to finished.

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