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Thread: Astra H mk5 Install - Doors (Sporthatch)

  
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    Astra H mk5 Install - Doors (Sporthatch)

    The doorcards come off easily enough, you have to remove screwcovers behind the door opening handle, and the grab handle....and also disconnect wiring for the light at the door opener, and the electric window switch.
    Few more screws to undo around the base...then it pops off carefully !



    As with previous Astra's, you're best making an adapter ring for the new speaker. As you can see the original speaker was secured by 3 screws.
    Simply trace round the orig speaker, mark through where the orig mounting holes are...I then countersunk the holes for the original screws, so they did'nt interfere with the seating of the new speaker.
    Cut out your adapter ring using a jig-saw from MDF.

    You can see where I mounted the crossover unit, plenty of space behind the doorcard on the mk5 for it.



    New tweeter is an easy swapover, I used a glue gun to glue the new one to the original grill...for that OE look.
    Used some deadening to mount the ring, also some between new speaker and mdf ring. Should have used more (will revisit this issue when time permits)


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    For the cabling between the crossover and the amp, I fed the speaker wire through the original door loom connector.

    If you open the connector up - you will see that the bottom half is not used.
    I carefully drilled a hole through the conenctor block, taking it nice and easy so as not to damage wires in the top half of the connection.



    Also using wire, and a lot of patience, I fed the cable through the original wiring rubber sleeve into the car.
    Although time consuming - the overall effect of NOT seeingthe wiring when you open the doors is well worth it !


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    John looking good yet again, but where is the soundeading?

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    I shall revisit the doors !
    It was all last minute dot com the evenings before the show !

    I have a bucket of sludge waiting....although I'm also thinking of getting skinz for the doors.....

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    John I knew you where going to revisit the soundeading as Mat mentioned it at Trax, when I asked him about your install.


    Right them sor me Sludge on its own is a no, no in my book, as it is not sufficient

    I would say it is at least a two way approach. Soundeading i.e. sludge/dynamat(Or others)(ideally both, but can be excessive for day to day cars), and a sound mat (Skinz? I assume you mean the mat) for airbourne noise (dynaliner or overkill(or overkill pro) or similar). That will do the trick nicely.

    Me I will be using Dynamat extreme and Second Skin Overkill (on the doors and roof) and Dynamt Extreme and Overkill pro on the floor and firewall areas. I will be posting some pics at some point hopefully in the coming week, but as this is the most time consuming bit of the install it might take longer. The gallon of sludge I decided against it so it has gone back.

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    I'll look out for that...with great interest..
    Time is against me again...

    The skinz thing is by Rainbow . 3 stage approach, yet looking at it..I;ve done one of the stages just by mounting the speakers on deadening.
    Question is whether I need a moisture guard of some sort.
    The rainbow skinz says:
    "Skinz Moisture Guard with its acoustically transparent open cell foam structure forms a moisture proof barrier to prevent water ingress and help extend the mechanical and electrical life of any speaker system"
    ...but I'll look around.

    I'll definately use sludge for ease of application in the doors
    ....other parts I need to do is the wheel well, may end up re-doing enclosure...

    All fun !

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    Coo, You should really try to avoid using MDF for anywhere that may be subject to water. Ply would have been a better choice for using in your doors

    Nice work though & pics too!

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