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Thread: courtesy light on door

  
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    deevo2.2sri's Avatar
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    courtesy light on door

    alright peeps this is what i am wantin to do, i want to put a light on my front door panels so that when i open the door the light comes on then when i shut it it goes off again, so does any1 know how i could do this and wire it up?
    cheers

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    However you do it you are going to have to drill and run a wire through the door grometts. For the best efect you should run the earth to the interior light so it dims the same way that does. The live can be taken from the power for the electric windows
    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
    Electrical fault finding also taken on
    Located in N/W London HA3, and willing to travel within reason





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    Ive just fitted this on mine today...although i fitted two rear courtesy lights taken from a BMW and fitted them either side of the tunnel console so lights up the footwells. I just ran a switched earth from the -ve on the main interior light - run wire down A-pillar and a permanent live feed from the car's ISO connector for the HU. I'd presume u could do a similar thing .... then again the above reply kinda tells u what to do anyway.....

    Might do my doors next...

    (PS this reply was probs no use to u....just thought i'd offer a little insight into my mod lol)

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    M1C VX's Avatar
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    my golf mk4 had this
    i have always wanted to do it to the astra, might do it soon
    What is cross posting? Is it when you get angry and post it on a forum?

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    like these ??





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    just like that mate.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ffoeg
    like these ??





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    Here you go then, this is the way I did it...

    .....This is only a general order of operation, and should be used in conjunction with a Haynes manual for removal so some parts.

    Along with the usual everyday tools needed you’ll also need
    • Soldering iron
    • Crimping pliers
    • Male & female spade and bullet terminals
    • Insulating tape and small ty-wraps.
    • Assorted bad language!!!


    As I’ve got a 3dr I’m obviously not too sure about the inner workings of a 5dr – I assume it should be a similar process, however there may be a problem finding a live feed inside the door, and probable the cable will have to run up inside the ‘B’ pillar – which may pose a problem

    Preparing the door

    a) Remove door cards as per my ‘how to’ hidden somewhere on the forum and then carefully peel back the underlying plastic sheet – do this from the bottom and go just up enough to clear the main (large) holes on the inside doorskin. Tape up out of the way whilst you’re working.

    b) With the door open, undo the multi connector on the front edge of the door – pop out the red locking pin and twist the connector to undo. Now depress the three prongs that locate the door side of the connector and push it back inside the door. Reach inside the door and pull the connector back, carefully pulling the loom off the mounting is the door - this is just pushed on to inverted screws and comes off easily, and you should be able to get the plug out the hole in the inner doorskin.

    c) Carefully take apart the multi-plug – unclip the retaining ring and peel back the rubber sleeve.

    d) Have a look in the back on the plug and locate an area that has no pins – i.e. not used. From the front, drill through the unused hole using a 3mm drill (this is to route the cable through). Now at the other end of the rubber sleeve, make a small slot using a Stanley knife.

    Wiring the door

    a) Pull the fuse to the electric windows or disconnect the battery

    b) Unclip the 3 or 4 white cable clips that can bee seen near the bottom rear of the door, that support the loom for the C/locking

    c) Find the permanent live feed to the electric window motor (fat red cable) and splice a new cable into this, using piggy-back spades or similar - this is to be the feed to the door lights and saves the need to run two cables through the multi-plug. Run this cable along the loom to the central locking and out of a convenient hole in the door skin near the lower corner. Make sure it’s not one used for the door card clip – the 3dr has and oval hole in just the right place.

    d) Leave about 6 inches poking through the hole and fit an insulated female spade terminal to the end.

    e) Now with a much longer piece of cable (preferable off the roll), thread it through the hole in the multi plug and down inside the rubber sleeve and out through the hole you cut earlier. The easy way is to use some stiff wire (or similar) to pull the cable trough. Follow the existing wiring loom and exit the cable through the hole used above. Leave about 6 inches poking through the hole and fit an insulated female spade terminal to the end.

    f) Now tape all the cables to the loom to tidy up, refit the loom to the clips/mountings and reassemble the multi-plug and refit it to the door (it only goes on way round and is a tight fit) – a bit of a bugger to do, but it will go. Leave about 6 inches slack cable inside the door (multi-plug end) somewhere - in case the door ever needs changing.


    Modding the door card

    a) Decide where you want the lights to go, check all is square and carefully scribe round the base of the light (the rectangular back side). Now cut out the hole with a Stanley knife.

    b) You will now have to clear away some of the black polystyrene on the inside of the card – the best way is to use a soldering iron and melt a line around the area you want to remove.

    c) Temporarily fit the light and to see where it is tight and trim the excess accordingly – slowly does it and don’t take too much off, as you’re aiming for a snug sit.

    d) At this point it is best to remove the other side door card and use the hole as a template to ensure both lights are in exactly the same place.

    e) Once happy with everything, fit the light to the doorcards and fix with a couple of ‘dobs’ of silicone sealer on the inside, just enough to keep in it place.

    Routing the cable

    a) Pull off the rubber door seal from the top and front of the door aperture.

    b) Remove the kick panel in the foot well and cover panel under the dashboard ( & glove box on passenger side).

    c) Remove the ‘A’ pillar cover (just pulls off)

    d) Remove both roof grab handles (remove two pins on underside and pull handle out)

    e) Pull back the ‘B’ pillar cover just enough to get you hand under the headlining (just unclips.

    f) Now the fun starts – unclip the multi-plug on the ‘A’ pillar and feed it all back (with the loom) inside the foot well. There are two sizeable grommets on the inside that you’ll have to contend with - This is an absolute ******* to do but it will go!!!

    g) As before, strip down the plug and drill through (3mm), making sure the hole lines up exactly with the one on the door half of the plug. Cut a slot in the far end of the rubber sleeve and feed the cable through the hole in the plug and out of the slot in the rubber.

    h) Reassemble the plug and refit to the door, pulling the excess cable through as you do – much much easier said than done, prepare yourself for a struggle!!! Once done the rest is easy.

    i) Run the cable up to the outside of the dashboard (this will be covered by the door seal when done), and up along the ‘A’ pillar and under the headlining toward the rear courtesy light and out through the light hole in the headlining. Then attach an insulated female spade terminal to the end (leave a few inches slack as always).

    j) The other end of the cable needs to be attached to the neutral side of the courtesy light. The best way to do this is to scrape away the coating from the relevant part of the printed circuit and solder a short (2 inch) length of cable to it, with an insulated spade terminal (male) on the other end.

    k) Job done - refit fuse and it should all work exactly as the main courtesy light – timed fade out, on with headlight switch etc.

    l) Put everything back together (be careful when refitting the ‘B’ pillar cover as the ‘fingers’ on the inside are easily broken).

    Do another door!!!!

  8. #8
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    that is well worth a pat in the back mate very well done
    i will try and give this a go at the weekend

    thanks geoff top man

  9. #9
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    Good luck with it!! - as you've got a 2.2 you'll have to run the earth to the rear courtesy light, as the front one gets a bit complicated with the factory fit alarm.

    I'm out on Saturday, but I'll be online most of Sunday (on and off) so if you get stick, gis a shout

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