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    Sub + Amp Question

    Looking at upgrading my weak sub and amp for something with a bit more punch. Like the look of the JBL 1201.1, however, How do you switch the amp between 2 and 4 ohms, is it a case of if the sub supports 2 ohms it will automatically work at that level?
    Also how do you get a amp to work at 14.4v because the battery is only 12v lol.

    Or can anybody recommend an alternative to the JBL with similer performance for the same or less cost?

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    The amps usually support 2 or 4 ohms and it depends how you wire the sub up as the what ohms it will run at.

    The amps run at 14.4v or just below when the engines running and the battery is being charged
    Want a professional job done on fitting your aftermarket electrical accessories? PM me for a quote
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    dont wast youre money on that i got told by a reputable company called car electronics in leicester the said it will never make the power they quote and they wont stock the amps because they are supposed to breakdown everyother month i was told ether spend a bit more and get a qulity amp or spend the same and get an amp with more belivable ratings i bougt an alpine MRV T420

    and the battery is 12v but when the engine is runner the alternater kicks it up to 14.4

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    cheers for your help, so ideally i want a sub that supports 2ohms and wire it up for that, as it almosts doubles the power!

    Not sure what to get at the moment. Currently have a sony xplod 12" sub (1200w max) and a renegade 600w (max) amp, that i bought as a package deal.

    Is around 2 years old now and is starting to sound a bit poor ( sure it was much louder when first got it for my corsa )

    Not knowing my RMS it is difficult to know how much louder each amp will be, but even something around 500w RMS will be a huge improvement. Any advice?

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    look at the alpine type R subs they have duel 4ohm coils and if you wire them proply they run 2 ohms
    ive got a JBL sub very impressed for the price but running it off my amp the sub cant cope might be worth going to a good car audio shop and ask them what set ups work well together
    same thing i had in my old Pug306 sure it was louder i think its due to the shape and size of the boot have you tried turning the msub round so its facing the back seats it gives a differant sound

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    at the moment i have it in the middle of the seats facing into the car with the ski hatch open! Just doesn't do anything for me anymore, maybe i have just become use to it but it seems to struggle to cope with some bass lines and sounds awful. Just like it is flapping around, not deep enough. Then suddenly it will sound quite good for 30secs or so then die off again!

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    have you tried it the other way and close the hatch
    are all the dials on the amp set right could you change the Xover so it hits the lwer notes might be set wrong i set mine so it stops working at 150Hz and down to 33Hz i think thats abot where they are cant properly remember and if youve amped the 6X9 slightly overlap the Xovers

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    yeah had it that way to start with, Set the amp to LPF? sounded better than HPF.

    Don't have 6x9's, or is that something different?

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    6x9s are the oval speakers people normaly put in there parcel shelf
    have you canged the head unit or is there a sub setting you can change mines a JVC i can change how many subs ive got and what gain level 0-12 but when you disconect the batery it resets to 4 have you got this facility on yours

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    Yeah got a sony HU, don't 6x9's as there isn't much point with a sub. H/U has a sub pre-out as well as one or 2 normal pre-outs so can change sub level from the H/U. Gain on amp is set to max, amp is set to +12db bass boost as well as LPF mode, which is a much more bassy than HPF. Amp is a 2 channel but it is bridged to one.

    Like the look of the alpine Type R Sub with its 500w RMS rating. Just need to find an amp to match + get some decent cables.

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