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Thread: Adjusting actuator

  
  1. #1
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    Gnasher's Avatar
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    Question Adjusting actuator

    Now then, here's the plan...

    I am thinking about getting both a boost gauge and an air/fuel gauge to put in my blank panel to add to my courtenay inlet air temp gauge. Fitting shouldn't be a problem using a combination of instructions and how to's off here.

    Now, I know that you cannot adjust the boost beyond a certain point due to the solenoid thingumy on the actuator and the standard map not supplying enough fuel but...

    I know that there are minimal gains to be had from this but with the air/fuel guage I should be ok to adjust without leaning off the mixture to a dangerous degree and with the boost gauge I should know when to stop adjusting the boost upwards.

    So here's the questions...

    1. How much can I increase the boost by (or what is the safe maximum limit?)

    2. How much (approximately) do i need to adjust the nuts that hold the wastegate lever to the actuator rod down the shaft of it? Although I know this is dependant on what boost increse is registered on the gauge.

    Now I know I'm not going to get masive gains on this, but I would like to make the best of what I have got. Especially once I have got the wife's permission to stick me a hooge intercooler on it!

    Thanks in advance
    2006 Astra VXR on 19's in Arden Blue
    ExhaustsUK Catback, Eibach Sportlines, DS Ultima, Roose hose kit, Forge recirculating dump valve, Full self modded SMD conversion

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    I can see what you are trying to do, but the actuator is electronically controlled by the cars management system. By adjusting it for more boost all you will do is get slightly more at first, then less as the management system adjusts it back due to the mapping.

    The end result is a car with a very "bumpy" boost curve and ulitmalty worse than the orginal.

    If you want to make some gains the best power for you cash is (in my opinion):

    1) Remap
    2) Precat removal
    3) Intercooler or exhaust (Miltek)

    There's a few other smaller things you can do, but the above are the biggies with the most gains.

    1) Air filter and Vectra C air pipe
    2) New spark plugs
    3) Super unleaded fuel

    Here's a few of my personal "waste of cash" mods in terms of power gains:
    1) Bailey dump valve
    2) Viper air filter
    3) Cone air filter

    Hope this helps.
    Tell me what you've done, not what you're going to!

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    As keith said, winding the actuator up too much on a standard car will make the car a bit jerky, but a turn or two wont hurt, infact a friend of mine was recomended this to help the car hold the torque a bit better up the revs, by a tuner.


    Basically you need to increase the amount of thread you can see poking out of the end the wastegate arm. maybe a turn or two at the most is all thats required. All you need us a 10mm open ended/combi spanner, and its a 2 minute job. just make sure the turbo is not too hot, or you will need a skin graft afterwards
    Astra GSi Turbo, SOLD


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    Cheers Lads, I might give it a go. At the end of the day if it makes it too jerky or whatever I will just wind it back again.

    K3FUS mate, I've already got a precat and exhaust sorted and the intercooler is coming next year.Also I already run it on Optimax so that's sorted. I'll hold my hands up to having a bailey dv (I've blanked off the original so I should be used to it being a bit jerky by now!) and a K&N cone filter (but my neighbour bought me that!)

    The one thing I also want to do is get a heat shield made up for the K&N and I'll plumb in an inlet from my (soon to be purchased) Veccy C pipe
    2006 Astra VXR on 19's in Arden Blue
    ExhaustsUK Catback, Eibach Sportlines, DS Ultima, Roose hose kit, Forge recirculating dump valve, Full self modded SMD conversion

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    There is also a tool that you can get to check the spring pressure - not sure what they are called or where to get them - it's like a small pump with a gauge attached - anyone know where to get one?

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