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Thread: fitting new brake pads

  
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    ron_1.8sport's Avatar
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    fitting new brake pads

    need all four pads replaced, should be simple enough but i aint really good with things like that. is there a how to anywhere or can anyone give me some advice cos im a bit of a retard when it comes to fiddly things like this and i dont wanna **** about with my brakes.
    cheers
    http://www.hardscore.com/ron/astra1.jpg
    1.8 16v sport in red
    standard apart from pipercross induction kit
    lots of plans tho!

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    I think you will need a 7mm allen key bit to remove the caliper bolts, (well thats what we needed on my Dads veccy, and the guy said its the same on my astra too.)

    have you got a haynes manual? there will be a good guide it that.

    extra tools needed:

    1. Copper grease/slip use this on the edges and back of the pads (NOT ON THE FRICTION MATERIAL!) this should stop the brakes squeeking and help the movement of the pads. It is also good to put a a thin layer of this on the surface of the wheel hub to stop rust forming.
    2. 7mm allen key bit
    3. bit of string/wire - this is to hold the caliper up so not to stretch the brake lines.
    4. A long bar (half a length of scaffold tube is puuuurrffecck!) this gives you a bit of leverage when undoing those tight road wheel bolts.
    5. A torgue wrench

    Hope this helps

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    It is pretty easy mate, but my caliper bolts were proper tight as they coat them with thread lock. You may need extra leverage for the allen key as they are hard to use when the bolts are tight.
    You can only do about 1/4 turns as well so it takes ages to undo the bolts completely.
    My mk3,117K, and the engine is still going strong
    shame about the car shell tho,lol.

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    It's a fairly easy job mate and there has been a fair few "How To's" posted before but as pointed out, the "calliper to carrier" bolts are threadlocked on. This is to stop them coming undone whilst driving and thus loosing braking ability (It can and does happen) so make sure that you buy yourself some and put the bolts back in at around 110Nm if you have a torque wrench to hand. IIRC the bolts are also male splines and not alan keys as stated before. This was the case on my 2000 W plate SXi so just be warned as there is nothing worse than getting the car all preped with the wheels off only to find you've not got the tools to do the job and need to drive somehwere to buy them!

    Don't forget the copper grease either

    Mick

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    This is a mk3 he has, i did mine yesterday and they are allen keys, a 7mm one.
    My mk3,117K, and the engine is still going strong
    shame about the car shell tho,lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MicKPM
    .... put the bolts back in at around 110Nm if you have a torque wrench to hand. .
    Do them that tight and you'll shear them off - 110Nm is for the road wheel bolts :roll:

    The slide pins (that come off with the 7mm allen key) only needed to be torqued to 30Nm on a Mk3.

    Best buy a Haynes Manual mate - it gives proper detailed instructions, and will pay for itself many times over.

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    The driveshaft nut is only tightened to about 100Nm, as Ffoeg said theres no way they will take that.
    But i have just looked in a astra MK2 manual(basically the same as MK3), and it says the caliper mounting bolts torque setting is 95Nm :shock:
    I don't see how that can be done with an allen key though. I managed it with a long tube and wrench for the driveshaft nut. And thats with a proper socket, not a crappy allen key.
    My mk3,117K, and the engine is still going strong
    shame about the car shell tho,lol.

  9. #9
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    This thread highlights the need to buy a manual (and understand it) before picking up a spanner to work on your car.

    As I said above the cailper slides only need torquing to 30Nm - these are only things that need to be unscrewed from the caliper when changing the pads, beside the road wheels.

    Big_Up_Vauxhall - the 95Nm you quote is for the two big bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the hub. BTW the driveshaft nut is tightened to 100Nm, slackened fully, retightened to 20Nm + 80degrees - I hope you do it ths way or you may be needing new beerings soon

    Do not mess with brakes unless you're 100% sure

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    Ah see, i got the idea mixed up, you are talking about what holds the pads in, i was talking about what holds the caliper onto the hub.
    Ffoeg-Why do you have to tighten it to 100 then fully undo and tighten to 20Nm and 80degrees. Doesn't seem to achieve much, tightening then undoing.
    And why will you need new bearings?
    Just asking as i just tightened it.

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