Fairly long, but lotsa detail, do this AT YOUR OWN RISK THOUGH! I take no responsibility for any damage you may cause!
Adding TC Switch
Drill bit with appropriate sized bit for the wire
Straight head screwdriver
Wire (Dick Smith Cat#: W2025 for aussies (use only one core/strand of the 2) Wire guage: 12ga wire length: about 3m MAX
Appropriate torx bits to remove gearlever surround/ashtray
4.8mm Crimp connectors (3 spade connectors, one spade “double adapter”, ring terminal)
TC Switch: Part#
TC dash mount in black: Part#
1. Before starting bring with you some idea of what you will have to do, you will have to be at least a little inventive as the plug for the ABS unit does not include pin “31” in it, which is what you need to “invent” for the process to work. Also be prepared to drill in an appropriate location in order to NOT drill through your power steering bottle, do it right and you’ll have heaps of room, do it wrong, and, well, don’t.
MAKE SURE CAR IS OFF AND NOT TURNED ON WHILE CONNECTOR IS NOT CONNECTED!!! Otherwise you’ll be seeing Vaux.
2. Start by getting to know your ABS plug better. Remove the cover off the relay box mounted above the ABS unit (ABS unit located at the passenger side near the firewall, near power steering bottle). Then use a screwdriver and remove the whole box off the mounts and move it aside, this makes the process 50 million times easier.
(Picture of box above abs unit and location of "clip"/bracket - one on either side
3. Use a straight handle screwdriver and push the “purple” lines you see on the drivers side of the abs plug itself, you don’t have to force it, it moves fairly easy, do it evenly as the purple piece holds the plug down in a weird mechanism – Once pushed through a little, feel the “handle” sticking out under the wiring coming out of the plug, and it will pull out and the plug will come off easily, come off easily means it will basically fall off.
4. Inspect plug for wiring, remove back “cover” off the plug and check it out, this is the easiest part, get to know the plug a little better and look at the bottom of it for the pin numbers, pin 31 is located at the back corner (drivers side back corner), make sure there is no wire in this. If there is, you are “prewired” for it, if not, continue
5. Use pin or similar device and push from plug side (as opposed to wire side) to push little white “plug” or “grommet” out of the hole. Put this aside as it may come in handy later one day.
6. Use torch/light to look “into” wire side of the plug, you will see in pin 31, what looks to be a small piece of metal with what looks to be purple glue around the metal inside the plug.
7. Get your wire and test fit it “into” the wire side of the plug. It should be a nice – not tight fit, but shouldn’t be too loose. Make sure the wire goes in (unstripped) to the purple glue/metal piece you saw previously. If it fits, continue, if not, find a more suitable piece of wire
8. Strip off approx 1.5cm of sheathing from the wire. “twist” wire so it “stays” together. Now, insert carefully into pin 31 – wire side – and try and centre it as much as possible, once pretty close to spot on, “twist” the wire in the hole a little and insert, if you have cut enough of the sheathing off, it will fit tight and wire will “just” stick out the plug side of the plug. (if there is an excessive amount sticking out, remove wire, trim and try again). If it sticks *just* outside, hold the new wire in from the back and “push” the wire into the hole with a screwdriver/pin in order to literally stuff the wire into the hole, quite simply, the more wire, the better the connection. Now, DOUBLE check you have the right pin in the hole, and insert the plug onto the abs module while holding the wire into pin 31 tight, so it can’t push back out. Once plug is on, slide purple plastic thing on while still holding wire. Now, here comes a choice, you can use the glue/silastic now to “seal” the wire and hold it in, or you try and hold it in properly while testing it works. Now, TRIPLE check you have the right pin on the abs module, assuming you do, if you chose to glue now (glue takes a while to dry anyway), add glue (or silastic) and literally “seal” it off from the outside world, don’t want water/moisture/anything going into it, and you want the wire to stay there. Once glued put cover back on the back of the wire side of the plug, leading the new wire out on top of existing TC/ABS wiring. It will be a “tight” fit – this is perfect. Now, make sure everything is right and any wires, etc, are AWAY from all moving engine parts (duh), go into car and turn ign onto normal running position, but don’t start it, make sure the abs/tc lights both go out.
9. Testing – All you have to do is “touch” the new wire to ground for a second (well, half a second) for it to work, so, touch it to the earth point near the suspension strut, make SURE you do NOT connect it to +ve power. Once you do this, the little TC light should come on. If it does, great, if it doesn’t, repeat step 8
10. Turn everything off.
11. Inspect under dash area (and remove the little cover under passenger side) and poke around. I decided to drill RIGHT near the bottom corner of the huge body plug, this may not be “your” ideal location, spend EXTRA time double checking it is right and you won’t drill through anything. Once location is found, drill. Carefully.
12. Paint around edges of newly drilled hole. Use grommet, if you are using silastic, insert wire now, fit wire carefully so there is “excess” in the engine bay side, but not a stupid amount of excess, make sure you can cable tie the wire to a few things to stop it moving around. Then use silastic around hole.
13. Replace under dash panel, this way the wire “holds” in place and allows you to move it around while the silastic is drying and not breaking the silastic seal.
14. Feed wire in through car up under to gear level area.
15. Test switch for the correct connections, from MEMORY the middle pin is where you attach the new wire going to the abs unit, the one closest to that is ground, and the one by itself in the corner is for the positive for the lighting when headlights are on.
16. Remove ash tray, will need to use torx bits and remove 2 torx holding ash tray in. Remove small cover around cig. Lighter – pulls off. The ashtray isn’t the easiest thing to remove, but do it carefully and it’ll be fine.
17. Locate light bulb on cig lighter surround. Remove the spade lug and use double adapter here. I had to “cut” my double adapter down because the vaux uses 4.8mm spade lugs, whereas I used 6.3mm wide versions. Use 4.8mm ones wherever possible.
18. Make up wires to go from the cig lighter bulb to the switch. Make up earth wire, I ran mine from under the handbrake from the plastic nut, I removed that and stuck the ring terminal under that and did it up again, perfect fit, I used the stock tubing under there as well, Add crimp terminals to all wires and attach carefully. Make sure you connect the right ones, best to leave the lighting one till last and you work out that the switch DEFINITELY works. Turn car on, just to ign, and test switch, should be able to get little light to turn on/off as you do press it. Works, PRESTO!
19. Add wire for bulb in switch – Test it works, if it does, cable tie all associated wiring away from the gearstick mechanism
20. Reassemble everything, take her for a spin, you’ll notice the difference coming around corners and taking off hard
DO ALL THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! I will NOT be liable for any damaged caused or by you doing something silly!!!